We arrived Anatom, Vanuatu at 1230 on Thursday after a great 55 hr / 453 nm passage. There is a large bay fully protected by a barrier reef, so we are settled and looking forward to a smooth calm night.
Anatom has only recently been designated as a customs clearance location. A couple hours after our arrival, a man in a small outrigger canoe, carved from the trunk of a breadfruit tree, approached from the beach. "Hi, I'm Colin the customs agent. Welcome to Vanuatu", he said. We invited him aboard and went through the usual paperwork and questions about prohibited or taxable cargo – how much alcohol, tobacco, any drugs or firearms, etc. In some countries, the officials do a careful inspection of the boat as they open lockers and compartments looking for contraband. Colin's inspection was a boat tour not an inspection.
He informed us that usually yachts have to complete their clearance at the next island, which involves an infamous 4 hr round trip Jeep ride to the town. We were in luck because the immigration and quarantine officers were on this island for the night, so they could clear in an Australian cruise ship which would be making a day stop tomorrow at this tiny tropical paradise. We got down our dinghy and he guided us through the channel in the reef to the beach where we picked up the other officers and returned them to Oso. More forms and paperwork, but no further inspections, and we were cleared into Vanuatu. Our clearance fees in Fiji had totaled over $450 USD at our last check in. Total fees here were $8500 'vatu' which converts to approx. $100 USD.
Our officials were wonderfully friendly and charming and gave us lots of suggestions for things to do and see in Vanuatu. As I returned them to the beach they said to be sure to come ashore tomorrow, after the cruise ship leaves, for kava with the locals. That's the equivalent of "let's have a few beers". We are going to like this place ................
Eric
