Cruise ships in Paradise

Of course cruise ships go to beautiful places or why else would people go on cruises. But when we read about Vanuatu being one of the most remote and primitive places in the South Pacific, we didn't think cruise ships would have found it as well. However, a day after arriving at the southern most island (Anatom) the Pacific Pearl with 2000 passengers dropped anchor just off shore and pooped out its passengers in orange shuttles onto Mystery Island – an islet across the pass from Anatom. (The history of Mystery Island states that no one lives there because the villagers believe the ghosts of their ancestors haunt the island – no wonder they were willing to give it up to unsuspecting tourists.) My curiosity got the best of me, so I paddled over in my kayak to investigate what an island visit is like for cruise ship people.

Having been nudged out of the channel by one of the ferrying shuttles, I was immediately informed there was no chance of tying my kayak to the long, empty cement dock. Instead some Vanuatu guys hauled it ashore and I entered through the backdoor, so to speak. The villagers from Anatom had been shuttling over all morning themselves, overloaded in open fishing boats. Cruise ship day is a big event for the village and a good source of income. The colorfully dressed women in flowered dresses hauled their wares to the market while the men carried baskets of fresh lobsters to the BBQ. 

Bear's feet stick out as he's boiled

I wandered along a path and stopped dead in my tracks at the spectacle before me. It was like walking into an amusement park. Ahead of me stood a dinghy-size black cauldron surrounded by fake orange flames with a sign that read, "Cannibal Soup". I smirked as the first tourist family posed for a souvenir photo. Oh please.

Further down the path the market signs beckoned. I followed. Stepping under the bamboo archway I was greeted by rows and rows and rows of covered stalls, partitioned into a hundred mini selling stations where sarongs, plastic flower leis, and shell jewelry (proudly make in Taiwan) were displayed for sale in Aussie dollars, at Aussie prices. Rip off.

Once through the market, I hit the beautiful, white sand beach. Now this is worth coming for! The surf was breaking over the reef a half mile off shore leaving a protected beach and swim area. Snorkeling equipment was available for hire at "just" $20 per day and some Aussies were already in the water. Several were very excited and I heard the word "turtle". How lucky for them, I thought. You don't usually see sea turtles this far inshore. What was that? Plastic yellow ropes were tied to trees leading into the water and one man was pulling on them while another focused the video camera into the water. I peered closely at the attraction and was appalled to see three gorgeous sea turtles the size of garbage can lids tied to the lines and being dragged around at the tourist's whim. I had to suppress the urge to cut them free or at least curse the swimmers for their callousness. In my mind I formulated a late night navy seal rescue plan that I would share with Bear later....

Completing my circumnavigation of the islet, I left feeling a bit miserable at the plight of the turtles, dumbfounded at the spectacle these people would think is Vanuatu and thrilled that I wasn't one of them. Cruise ships in paradise? I don't think so. Cruise ships turn paradise into Disneyland-like shows to entertain and make money. You could find that anywhere.