I spent the afternoon sitting on smooth rocks in the middle of a cool, mountain stream doing laundry with seventeen year old Serafina from the island of Anatom (Aneityum), Vanuatu while Bear played hide-n-seek and swam with six local boys all about his age. I've never actually beat on clothes to clean them before and I found the experience quite rewarding and the conversation with Serafina light-hearted and interesting.
Serafina was stunned that I wanted to help wash clothes. When I asked to help, she said, "Are you sure?" "Yep, show me what to do!" and I jumped knee-deep into the brisk water. She handed me a hard bar of transparent yellow soap wrapped in clear plastic and pointed to a snare drum sized boulder that was white and flattened from previous use. There was a perfect rock right next to my washing rock to sit on and a deeper pool at my feet for rinsing. These ladies had the logistics of this process well laid out. Serafina showed me how to rub the bar soap directly onto the clothes and scrub with a harsh, very stiff bristled brush. I was afraid I was going to tear holes in some of the threadbare clothes so I went easy on them. But Serafina didn't. She scrubbed and rubbed and beat those clothes on the rocks as if she was beating the dust out of a leather hide. I took my cue and worked a little harder, still wary of damaging the goods. I thought of my washing machine and dryer on the boat and felt a slight pang of guilt (and gratitude) at how easy my life is compared to this labor and put even more muscle into it.
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| Serafina |
As the pile of washed clothes grew, I learned more about Serafina and her village. Serafina, whose sense of humor showed immediately when she claimed to be from Africa when she told me her name (Serafina must be a popular African name), spoke English well but with a thick accent so our interchange was slightly limited. The kids all spoke their native village tongue amongst themselves, although they learn English in school. Serafina said that her mother took her out of school at age fourteen and that her mother now lives in Port Vila (the biggest city in Vanuatu which is on another island about 150 miles north of here). Serafina's father died when she was four years old. She has more family in the village but it was unclear if she lives with them. I know that she has a ten year old brother because she was washing his laundry along with her own. Serafina was a sweet girl, slightly timid but intelligent, and said that she had enjoyed school when she attended. There was something slightly sad about her but she was obviously hard-working and responsible. I enjoyed spending time with her.
After about an hour, the wash pile got down to the "really dirty ones". Serafina was reluctant to hand them over to me. I don't know if it was because she didn't think I'd do a good enough job or if she felt awkward giving this "white lady" her truly dirty laundry. I insisted and told her I wouldn't be offended if she had to redo it but I would put in the extra effort. She just laughed and tossed me her brother's frayed t-shirt that was quite soiled with inland dirt. I thought what my Oxyclean spray and the ultra-cycle could do in this situation.
I'll never know what Serafina really thought about me helping with the laundry but I'm sure I left an impression on her today, as much as she left on me.
Posted by Ann
