Roos: The Whitetail Deer of Australia

When our Southern friend, Deb, visited us in northern Wisconsin and saw a whitetail deer for the first time, she screamed, “Stop the car! I want to take a photo!” Really? It’s just a deer for heaven’s sake. Deer that I fed through the chicken wire fence at Prentice Park when I was a kid. Deer that eat my hastas (beautiful leafy plants) and anything else I care to plant at the cabin. Deer whose frequent and erratic presence warrants yellow diamond warning signs every mile along the roadsides. Deer that lounged daily in the backyard of our Minnesota house near the heart of the city without being phased by the presence of people. Deer that almost everyone I know has hit  with their car (we’ve hit two ourselves). That is the animal that merits a stop for a photo?  Whatever….

So now we are in Australia where we see a kangaroo for the first time! “Stop the car! We need to take a photo!” I imagine the smirk of the passing Aussies. But these animals are amazing! They are so different from any other animal we’ve seen. Sure, we’ve all seen them in a zoo, but here they are in the wild – in the bush! – in their natural environment. Their meaty hind quarters dominate their slender upper body and slim head. With rabbit-like (or deer-like, if you will) ears they look inquisitively in our direction, then return to their grazing. After a few minutes their graceful, effortless jumps propel their pear-shaped bodies across the field to the safety of the woods. Our first siting – how exciting!

We pull up to the first campsite on our two week RV trip from Sydney to Melbourne. On the clearing we carefully watch every step to steer clear of the copious amounts of dark animal droppings. Could this be from our beloved roos? Wouldn’t it be great to see them again? Near sundown, our hopes are rewarded as we peer into the woods at several kangaroos munching on the tall grass. The next night, the roos boldly come onto our clearing. We’re in awe. We watch as their thick, muscular tail acts as a fifth leg as they meander on the lawn. Front paws lead, tail moves forward between sturdy back legs which follow the tail. Their strange walk fascinates us.  

At the next campsite, roos are everywhere. Leisurely lounging in the campground like they own the place. Now we are noticing the high frequency of dead roos along the roads as we drive along the Aussie highways. Roos seem to be everywhere.

They're everywhere!

 Another campsite….the roo poop is so thick we need to get out plastic bags to pick it all up before we set up camp. Now we’re turning up our noses a bit.

Yes, roo poo..

 Could it be?  Could these unique marsupials possibly be the whitetail deer of Australia? Yes, yes they can….

The Gold Mine...by Bear

We, on Oso Blanco, (Ann, Eric and me, Bear) went to a gold mine in Walhalla, Oz. The mine tunnel was about 10 feet, 3 meters, across and about 5-12 feet high. We had to wear hard hats it was so low!

Inside the tunnel

Did you know that back then it took one week to make one meter of tunnel? The way they made the tunnel was like this. One person had a drill bit (metal rod), the other had a big mallet and they made a hole by whacking it. They filled it with gun powder, lit it and ran for the door!

The thing I liked the most was the fact that man can go so deep -1000 meters! The thing liked the least was the cramped conditions. I actually bolted for the door but I (surprisingly) went back in. And I loved it!

A miner's life was bad. There were 8 ways to die! That is a bad life!

The adventure was fun and I learned a lot. It was a once in a life time experience.

Blue Mountains with Old Friends

After a week of city life, we escaped to the Blue Mountains with our good friends, the Giffords.

Totem and Oso together again!

We first met Jamie and Behan Gifford and their three wonderful kids (Niall – 12, Marin – 9, and Siobhan – 7) in Monterey, CA in 2008. They were aboard s/v Totem and we had heard about them for months. When they pulled into the Monterey marina, six year old Bear yelled to them from the pier – “Hi Totem!” When they looked questioningly at him, he was baffled. “It’s me – Bear!” We had talked about meeting Totem so much that Bear was sure we knew them already and, of course, they knew him. They just laughed at this boisterous kid and continued to their slip. Within the hour, our families converged on the dock and met properly. We became instant friends. The girls came back to our boat to play for the afternoon and we made plans to explore the Monterey Aquarium the next day. We’ve been cruising buddies on and off since – California, Mexico and through the South Pacific. In 2010 when we turned south to New Zealand, s/v Totem continued on to Australia where they would stop and work for a while to refill their cruising coffers. Although we were sad to depart company, we knew we’d be together again.

So when we planned our land yacht cruise in southeast Australia, we were thrilled that the Giffords could join us!

First stop: –the Blue Mountains, just a two hour drive from Sydney. Behan, who had to fulfill her day job requirements, was able to meet us via the train for the weekend. In addition to watching kangaroos at the campsite, we went hiking in the gorgeous rainforest to a railway tunnel that contained a multitude of glow worms.

Sundowners around the campfire

We spent nine fun-filled days and nights together in various campsites between the Blue Mountains and the southern end of the state of New South Wales.  The kids had a fabulous time exploring their surroundings, sleeping in tents, playing games and even doing school together.  The pools, peddle go-carts and jumping pillows at some of the commercial campgrounds were probably their highlights. The adults enjoyed drinking wine around the fire, relaxing, catching up on each other’s lives and dining out sans kids a couple of times. Our highlights were having happy kids and being together again. 

The kids explore the coastline

Siobhan bounces high on the jumping pillow

Marin shows her stuff on the go-cart

Bear looks up to Niall like a big brother

Twenty-two year Reunion

Ann and Tracy

I met Tracy in 1987 when I moved to Orange County, California to work at a regional office for a large health insurance company. Tracy was the office manager of the four person outpost and she was subversively the one in charge. We had an incompetent (at best) boss and we teamed together both at work and socially.

Tracy was the only true friend that I made in the three years I lived in California. We enjoyed movies, theater, the flea market and exploring new places. Tracy was always in the know about where to go and what was happening in the area. I left California in 1990 and Tracy left soon after to join her husband in Malaysia. We stayed in touch through the years and I vowed to visit her one day. I thought that would be in Malaysia but reset that plan when she moved to Australia (her home country) five years ago.


I met Tracy in the hotel lobby and recognized her immediately! She hadn't changed a bit. As it is with longtime, good friends, we picked up where we left off as if twenty two years hadn't passed since our last time together. We were able to get together several times over our week in Sydney and meet each others kids (she has two: 19 year old Katie and 16 year old Shane). It was a wonderful time and we hope she can visit us next year on the boat in northeastern Australia. 

On the Road

We left Oso Blanco safely tucked in near Brisbane a couple of weeks ago and flew south to Sydney to explore southeast Australia. Staying right in the heart of Sydney, we enjoyed all the city had to offer: museums, the Opera House, harbor ferry cruises, and great restaurants. Sydney was surprisingly smaller than I had envisioned and easy to navigate. The public transportation is superb and inexpensive, offering a tour of the city and harbors (via ferries) at a reasonable cost. Most tourist areas were overpriced (per usual) but many museums were free and inviting on rainy days (which were all of our days in the city!). Overall, we ranked Sydney high on the list of very cool cities to visit.

View of the Sydney Opera House from a harbor ferry

Sydney Skyline

Farewell Jo

Our friend, "family" member, and crew, Jo, left us for new adventures. Her presence on the boat is missed and we refer to her every day! If Jo were here, she'd do this or say this. Bear misses his morning mantra of "The British is coming! The British is coming!" Every day Bear tells us that he misses Jo and especially the music classes. We all miss her sense of humor, her caring ways and, of course, her cleaning! She's on her way to England now to meet her new niece, Alba. We wish you all the best Jo!

The faces of Jo:

Still Prefer Sheep

"Ah, I still prefer sheep...."

Lone Pine Koala Sancutary by Bear

Bear cuddles a koala

In Oz, we on Oso Blanco went to a koala sanctuary that also had other animals. I held a koala there and saw Tasmanian Devils. We fed and petted kangaroos and wallabies. We also saw a wombat and a lot more!

One of the animals we saw was a platypus. Did you know that they are small? They are only about a foot long! I thought they were bigger.

Here are some facts we learned. Did you know that the Tasmanian Devils only eat meat? Or that koala bears only have three fingers but have two thumbs? Did you know that kangaroos live for 15-20 years? I think these are good facts.

We stayed there for only two hours but saw a LOT. It was a super experience. I would love to go back. Take my advice - GO THERE!

Feeding kangaroos

Playypus

Tasmanian Devil

Wombat

Loving Oz!

We've been in the land of Oz just over a week now and it has totally exceeded our expectations! Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore - but the people are just as friendly as any Midwesterner and some of the dry, open countryside is reminiscent of Kansas. But then you go to the beach.....! Toto has turned into a dingo and the scenery blows you away!  

Stunning Beach on Fraser Island

Dingo on Fraser Island

Before coming here, we were told the Aussies were loud, rude and obnoxious. After being in New Zealand last year where the Kiwis were extremely nice and welcoming, we almost dreaded the land Downunder. But our experience (so far) with Aussies has been overwhelmingly positive. Without fail, they have been helpful, cheerful, funny, and hospitable. 

 

The other misconception we had about Australia is that everything is ungodly expensive. We have not found that to be true either. Compared to New Zealand, we find things slightly cheaper. Compared to Vanuatu and New Caledonia - or the rest of the islands for that matter - it's a downright steal! 

So don't be afraid if the tornado blows you to Oz. In fact, jump in Glynda's hot air balloon and fly on over! You'll love it!

Next week....we'll be traveling to the Emerald City - Sydney!

Posted by Ann

Snakes Downunder by Bear

Bear holding a Python (non-venomous)

On Sunday, the 6^th of November, 2011, we, on Oso Blanco, went to a snake place called Snakes Downunder. Did you know that there are about 200 species of snakes in Ozzy? About 80 species are venomous. We learned this fact and many others at Snakes Downunder.

In Ozzy, snake venom is rated against the King Cobra. The most venomous is the Inland Taipan. It is 80 times as deadly as a Cobra. But the most dangerous is the Coastal Taipan. Even though it is only 40 times as venomous as a Cobra, it is more aggressive and more common. 

Some snakes lay eggs and some give birth to live young. All might eat their young and none take care of their babies. Snakes eat every 2-4 weeks.

Snakes smell with their tongue, but only some can hear. They can all see, but not very well.

The best way to identify snakes is by scale count. Snakes shed their skin about once a month. 

If you see a snake, FREEZE! If you get bitten by one, put lots of pressure on the place and then call a hospital.

It was a scary and fun experience and I am still afraid of venomous snakes.

Posted by Bear

Bundaberg Rum Factory

When you grow a lot of sugar, you have a lot of waste product - molasses to be exact. And, as the sign on the roof at the Bundaberg Rum Factory says, "When life smothers you with molasses, make rum."

Since 1888, Bundaberg Distilling Company has been turning sugar by-product into rum at a staggering rate. We toured the facility and were stunned by the figures they reported: 300,000 bottles of rum bottled per week; 15,000 cans of rum and coke packaged per minute; 6 million liters of rum in vats.... This is one major operation.

Even though Bundaberg rum is famous, its mascot won our hearts - Bundy, the white bear. We tasted the rum, but mostly sought out the white bear souvenirs.

Bear felt a connection with Bundy!

What really blew us away was the queue that had formed in front of the plant. In honor of Bundy's 50th birthday, the Distillery is releasing a limited number of special bottles and several people will camp out for up to nine days for the right to purchase ONE bottle of this unique product. The lower the bottle number, the more valuable the prize. Good on 'em - as they say!

Rum fans in line for limited edition bottles.

EB and Brian Visit New Caledonia

EB and Brian

Eric’s oldest daughter, Elizabeth (EB), and her husband, Brian, came to New Caledonia for a three week visit. We spent most of the time exploring the bays and islands south of Noumea where we discovered the red clay mountains of Prony Bay, the natural lagoon at Oro Bay and a mountain hike to beautiful vistas at Iles de Pins. Brian enjoyed ocean kayaking, tried his hand at fishing (with no luck), took a turn at sailing, saw a shark while snorkeling and climbed mountains for spectacular views. EB, being six months pregnant, stuffed herself into a wetsuit for snorkeling, was a trooper on hikes and still beat up on her little brother. Back in Noumea, we visited the Tjibou Cultural Center, the Noumea Aquarium and the New Caledonia museum.  The time flew by as it always does when you’re having fun! Here are some photos from our time together!

It's a Green Pumpkin Charlie Brown

At Easter I couldn’t find white eggs for coloring so we had some funky colors when we dyed brown eggs. Now it’s Halloween in New Caledonia and our Jack-o-latern is GREEN! Pretty cool!

Vampiress Ann, Caballero Bear and Ballarina Eric

We had planned on being on passage to Australia on the day of Halloween so we had a party on Oso the day before. Trick-or-treating was a bit scarce with only two other boats in the anchorage that were wise to our scheme. That didn't deter us! Donned in our costumes, we set out in the dinghy to collect our treats - but were met with tricks from Jackster instead! 

Zombie Jo

Jackie and David as each other

Pirate Cindy with Bear

Sister Ships

On April 1, 2010 Oso Blanco, Nordhavn 64-09 and Mystery Ship, Nordhavn 64-10 departed Paradise Village in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico after a "good-bye" dinner with our friends at the VYC.    We began a journey of a lifetime as we started across the Pacific Ocean towards the Marquesas Islands, nearly 3000 nm away.

 

After arrival in the Marquesas, we wandered the South Pacific on slightly different schedules than Glen and Cindy on Mystery Ship, but we stayed in touch and often crossed paths for a few days or weeks at a time.  Each time we reconnected, we shared stories, had wonderful dinners and great wine. and enjoyed seeing our beautiful sister ships berthed or anchored near each other.   We recently connected in New Caledonia and prepared for our crossing to Bundaberg, Australia.

 

Today, Nov 4, 2011, we completed our Pacific crossing as we arrived together in Bundaberg, Australia.     17 months and over 13,000 nautical miles, often within sight and radio contact, always within email.    In the middle of the night, somewhere on the great Pacific Ocean, there was always comfort in seeing a distant light.

 

We don't know when we will again make a passage together, but what an amazing journey it's been.

Trawler Time

It's 4 am on our third day out from New Caledonia and we have covered over 630 nm in less than 70 hours.     I just came back on watch after 8 hrs of wonderful sleep.    I woke up slowly in a foggy haze – unsure of where I was and feeling only a gentle motion.   The sound of the engine is a distant hum.    Are we moving?

 

This is Trawler Time.    The Pacific is just that – peaceful, but still alive.   The boat is doing exactly what it is designed to do – working with the sea – not against it and carrying us toward our next destination, safely and smoothly.    The eastern horizon has already taken on a pink orange glow foreshadowing another spectacular ocean sunrise.    But the sea is not still today.    As I came up to the galley for my morning coffee, I expected to see that mirror like, summer morning stillness we so often experience at our little lake in Wisconsin.    This morning, the ocean is still providing  3' – 4' swells, but they are so long, so gentle, and graceful that the boat does not rock, roll, or twist about.     Oso Blanco slowly rises and settles as each swell passes under.    Each individual swell is visible as it gradually approaches us, one after another - lifting our 90 tons like a duck on the lake and softly settling.    There is a gentleness to the ocean at times like this, but it's power is unmistakable. 

 

Sometimes during foolish cocktail hours, we get into the unanswerable debate of which is better, a sailboat or a power boat.   To me, there is no more wonderful feeling than a finely tuned sailboat on a broad reach, in perfect conditions.   The feeling of power, charging through the water, with only the sound of the waves breaking under the bow.   It is what sailing dreams are based on.

 

Most of our sailing friends have never experienced Trawler Time.    Yes, the seas are gentle and the sunrise is imminent, but the wind is very light and wandering around the compass like it's had 3 shells of kava.   To be under sail at this moment would be rolling from side to side as the sails flop back and forth searching for direction from the wind.    When we used to race in these conditions, we said one had to drool over the side to see if we were moving forwards or backwards.   But this is our time.   Our Nordhavn is purring along at 1350 rpm doing 7.8 kts toward Australia.   The systems are working perfectly together and our stabilizing system reduces any roll to a gentle motion.    All our doors and ports are open and the soft breeze drifts throughout the boat.   With the engine turning so effortlessly deep below, all one is aware of is the sound of the waves as they roll along the hull.   

 

Sailboat vs powerboat is a foolish debate.    Out here, we are all doing it our own ways.   We take what the sea offers and hopefully we each enjoy our boat and each day.    The fact that we get to drink a beer with  interesting folks in far away places and discuss such issues shows how lucky we are.   The boat is only a means to an end.

 

But, then there is Trawler Time......... 

 

E

 

PS:

I apologize (not really) for any redundancy or repetitiveness in my ramblings while at sea.    After  a few days and nights in near perfect conditions I seem to enter a peaceful fog (purple haze?) that induces an inspiration to try to describe what it's like out here.  This is especially true when I come on watch for my usual 4 am shift.   Unfortunately, it also may blur previous attempts and the story may be repeated.   Or is it I'm just getting old?

Australia Bound Day 1

We left New Caledonia early Monday morning and are steaming toward Bundaberg Australia.   Our first day has been great with relatively mild seas and winds on the beam.   Seas are forecasted to get a bit lumpy by Wednesday, but so far so good.

 

E

New Caledonia

It is October 30 and a month in New Caledonia has blown by.   The highlight of our time here was having Elizabeth and Brian with us for nearly 3 weeks as we explored some of the outer islands and anchorages.

 

We are now anchored at the far SW end of New Caledonia with David and Jacqui on Jackster and Glen and Cindy on Mystery Ship.    We have spent much of the last couple months with Jackster and we are having our last hurrahs with them before they head to NZ and we cross to Bundaberg, Australia.    It will be nice to have Mystery Ship (our identical sister ship) with us for the 800 nm / 4 day passage to OZ. 

 

We will be heading out early tomorrow (Monday) morning and the forecast is for reasonable conditions with 2 – 2.5 meter seas from the E – SE.   Following seas and light to moderate winds should give us a good ride.

 

Eric