Thursday, November 25, 2010

Bear's Adventure in Glow Worms Cave

I went to some glow worm caves in New Zealand. A glow worm is the larvae stage of a fungus gnat who only lives five days.

It is called a glow worm because it has a big light near its tail which is for attracting insects that will get snagged in their "fishing" lines that they put down. Then the larvae eat the insects.
It was 8pm when we went into the cave. It was very dark. In the darkest part we took a boat ride. All the glow worms were on the ceiling and looked like stars in the night sky. 
SEE YOU ON MY NEXT ADVENTURE!

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Land yacht - Day 3

We flew to Christchurch on Monday where we picked up our NZ Land Yacht.   After getting 'checked out' with our new home, we loaded up with food, beer and wine and headed out to local RV park for the night.   Tuesday morning we wandered around Christchurch before heading south.   Our dear friend Andrew Parr, (from the sailboat Mulan) grew up on a sheep farm here on the south island, and he arranged for us t visit his brother and family at the family farm.  We parked our vans in the paddock and had a wonderful tour of the farm and a fabulous dinner.  
 
Wednesday we headed toward Mt Cook National Park and spent all day Thursday hiking in the park.   It is a spectacular park with 12,000' peaks rising out of the sea.   There are also numerous glaciers, snow fields, and rivers.   It is mid-spring here in NZ so the high alpine areas are in full bloom and beautiful.  Next stop will be further south in Queenstown, which is the gateway to the coastal fjordlands.
 
E

Monday, November 15, 2010

South Island

Today we are flying to Christchurch on the South Island where we will pick up a small campervan.   For the next two weeks, we will be exploring the South Island and work our way back to Auckland.  
 
E

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaa

Auckland calls itself the City of Sails and looking around, you would think the America's Cup was here last week.  Right next to our marina is the NZ Maritime Museum.   It houses "Black Magic" the ACC yacht that won the America's Cup and a wonderful memorial to Peter Blake, NZ's god of sailing.
 
Today, Andy and I sailed for two hours on NZL 41, an ACC boat that was one of Team New Zealand's trial horse boats.   What a rush!!  It was blowing 20kt gusting to 25 and the boat was rarely below 10-12 kts.   Everyone got a chance to be a grinder and to steer.   A dream come true!
 
E

Monday, November 8, 2010

Puert Vallarta - Auckland NZ Summary

Some totals from our cruising season:   April 1 - Nov 7  2010
 
Puerto Vallarta - Marquesas - Tuamotus - Tahiti - Bora Bora - Suwarrow - Tonga - Fiji - New Zealand
 
Total miles traveled:  8104 nautical miles  (9400 statute miles)
Total engine hours:  1108
Total generator hours: 2386 hrs   (1645 16kw,  741  25kw)
Average speed: 7.3 kts
Total fuel used:  9095 gals.   (Gen: 2300 gal   Main engine: 6795)   1.2 nm/g  avg      6.1 gph avg,    (+ elec generation)
 

NZ Arrival

We arrived in Auckland NZ at 7:45 pm on Sunday!   Our last day was a beautiful run down the coast.  
 
Our friend Peter VanCuylenburg, owner of a boat like ours, arranged with his brother for a fly-over welcome from the NZ Coast Guard.  They circled overhead, took photos, and radioed us a "welcome to NZ".  
 
The customs and quarantine officials met us around 8:15 and the check in was very friendly and quick.  This was by far the most welcoming and simple clearance we have ever experienced.   A few days prior to arrival here, we were required to submit an advance notice form with our details.   The customs official said he had googled our boat name and had been following our blog! 
 
We are now settled in the "viaduct" harbor where the America's Cup syndicates all had their bases during Cup defense here. We are right downtown in the center of activity and an overwhelming array of yacht facilities.  
 
Our passage from Fiji to Auckland was:  128 hrs,  1170 nm,  avg speed  9.1 kts @ 1650 rpm, (fuel use: don't ask)   This was the hardest and fastest we have pushed Oso Blanco for an extended period.   Nearly 1200 nm miles with 2-3 meter seas on or near the nose and the boat performed flawlessly.  We were safe, comfortable, warm, and dry.   Thank you, Nordhavn.
 
 

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Did you know? (post by Bear)

Did you  know that out of the twenty+ types of paranhas, only five are carnivores?  The rest are vegetarians!The ones that are carnivores are scavengers mostly. They are not known to kill people.
We went to an aquarium in New Zealand. They gave a little presentation about all the fish in their tanks while they were feeding them. This is a Red Bellied Paranha. It is one of the vegetarians. All paranahs live in the rivers of South America. A paranah is one of the fish we did NOT see on our own.

Maybe 90% of the fish and other animals we've seen while snorkeling or diving in the ocean this year. 

We also did not see penguins on our own yet. (But we hope to because there are some in New Zealand.)

Home stretch

34 58 S   175 04 E
 
7 am Sunday Nov 7
 
After a partially bumpy night, the seas have once again settled down for our last 12 hours to Auckland.   We are running down the east coast of New Zealand about 40 nm off shore.    Every new landfall brings excitement, relief, and a sense of satisfaction, but today includes a lot of mixed emotions.  
 
Over 7 months ago we left Puerto Vallarta on a grand adventure.   By the time we tie up this evening, we will have logged over 8000 nautical miles, crossed an ocean, and had experiences we could not have even dreamed of.    In the next weeks we will take time to reflect back on this year, but one thing is certain - the dream lives on.    Stay tuned .......  
 
E
 
 

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Back to reality

Saturday morning  31 17 S  175 33 E
 
Well, we had 36 hrs of smooth ocean bliss and time to wax philosophical.   Seems like King Neptune once again seduced us into thinking it was going to be easy.
 
A few hours ago we had a 180* wind shift with building seas and rain.  Nothing like a front to bring us back to reality.   Forecast is for 20-25kt on the nose with lumpy seas all the way into the barn.   Saddle up and hang on, cowboy.  330 nm and 36 hrs of fun.   Yeeeeeha!
 
Looks like we are back to ramin noodles and cookies.
 
E

Friday, November 5, 2010

Southern Cross

"When you see the Southern cross for the first time …"  or the next time. 

 There are nights at sea when all you want to do is see the sunrise.   Nights when you just hold on waiting for the next wave or blast of wind to shake your world.    You just want it to end.

Then there are nights like tonight.   There is no wind.   The Pacific lives up to its name.    The Milky Way blazes and is repeated in the surface of the sea.  The horizon disappears as sea and sky blend into one.   Any slight movement in the water, whether the slicing of the water as the boat drives forward or just the ripples on the surface set off a light show of pixy dust.    Countless microscopic critters glow and sparkle with the waters' movements setting off their bioluminescence.    

Everything is alive and glowing, yet all is at peace on the sea.   These are the nights sailors dream of.   This is why we bash into head seas and put up with hanging onto to anything within reach just to get a cup of coffee or make it to the head.

Tonight the Southern Cross is right in front of us near the horizon.   Yes, the autopilot and GPS are taking us straight south to New Zealand, but it is easy to imagine the early sailors following the heavens on nights like this.    

There is nothing around us that the sea doesn't provide.  No boats on the radar no distant lights.   As far as we can tell, there is not another person within hundreds of miles.  It is so dark that the slightest light from our boat can break the spell, so I dim down the instruments and turn off the running lights.   Now the world around us seems to explode with pinpoints of light in the heavens and deep into the sea.

Ahead are the distant guiding stars.   Behind us, our wake glitters and sparkles showing us we have been following a magic path.    Soon the first glow of the rising sun will break the spell.   Luckily, these are the nights we remember.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Day 3

24 05 S    176 27E
 
It is 7 am and Andy and I are 763 nm from Auckland.   Conditions remained the same through most of yesterday and overnight with 15-20 kt wind and 2-3 meter seas.   Not the best ride, but certainly not bad.   We have both adjusted to being at sea and the precooked meals Ann had sent are bright spots in our day.   Best part is we are averaging 9.5 kts toward our destination with a little current push.   
 
We have not seen another boat or ship since we left Fiji, however, we listen in twice each day to the HF radio nets and can talk to other folks on their way to NZ.    Last night we heard  boats we have been crossing paths with all season including, Freezing Rain, Stray Kitty, and Emily Grace.   Even though they are hundreds of miles from us, it makes it seem a little less lonely out here.
 
If our luck holds, we should arrive in Auckland Sunday evening NZ time.
 
E
 
 

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

1st morning at sea

20 17.9 S   176 55.0E
 
Our 1st 18 hrs at sea have been a rather rude reintroduction to life at sea.  The good news is our forecast has been accurate.   The bad news is the forecast still shows brisk wind and building seas for the next 24 hrs.   One prefers to ease into open ocean conditions gently, but as soon as we were out of the shelter of the islands of Fiji, King Neptune was waiting for us.   We had anticipated placid conditions since we had poured ample amounts of Kava into the sea the last few days in hopes of mellowing out Neptune.   Perhaps he figured out we were only dumping the grounds and sludge (stems and seeds?) from the brew we were preparing and is getting even.
 
Over night we had steady 20 - 30kt winds and 8 - 12' seas all on the port bow.   Sunrise has brought us some moderation, we were both able to get some sleep, and we are pushing Oso to shorten the trip as much as possible.   We are running at 1650 rpm and averaging around 9 kts.   This is only 1.5 kts faster than our usual more fuel efficient cruising speed, but it takes a whole day out of a 1200 nm passage.   I have reached for the throttle a couple times, but just can't make myself pull it back!    Rock on.
 
 

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

NZ here we come

Fiji  17* 40.9 S  177* 20.7 E
 
It is just after noon on Tuesday and we finally got through customs and immigration clearance.   Ann and Bear are off to a local hotel until they fly to NZ tomorrow, while Andy and I are getting underway.   The magic navigation box says 1150 nm to Auckland and the weather is forecasted to be OK for our passage.    The weather guessers say we should have winds in the 15 - 25 kt range and seas ranging 3 - 4 meters.   Not perfect, but not miserable,  either.   We intend to push Oso harder than usual on this passage and plan on running at 8 - 8.5 kts.  that should put us in Auckland in about 6 days.
 
Fiji has been a great place and we intend to be back here next year, after the cyclone season.
 
Eric