Nature Cooks

Boiling hot springs at Savusavu

At the hot springs on Vanua Levu in the town of Savusavu, the water is boiling hot - literally. To test how hot, we put a couple of eggs in a canvas bag and sunk them in the bubbling pool. After ten minutes, we were rewarded with two perfectly boiled eggs. This natural heat source offers a totally free and environmentally-friendly cooking experience. While we were there, we met a local family who was cooking their evening meal of chicken and kasava (root vegetables). A great alternative for a family on a tight budget!

Snorkeling at Night by Bear

We went on a night snorkel. We had to use underwater flashlights. There were not many fish, but a lot of feeding coral. We saw one 5 foot long, white tip shark (but he came around twice). We put our flashlights on him and his eyes glowed. I clutched my mom's hand so hard I thought her arm might be numb!

 

We found a sleeping turtle under a ledge. It woke up and swam sleepily away.

 

It was my first night snorkel and it was really fun.

Bear's Early Birthday Party

Because it was the last day spent with Bear’s friends aboard s/v Stray Kitty and s/v Kamaya, we celebrated Bear’s birthday early with a party at Namata Bay on the island of Qamea (Fiji). It happened there were seven Fijian kids living along this bay so we invited them to the party as well. All thirteen kids had a great time swimming, tubing and playing party games such as toss the balloon and relay races around the boat. It was inspiring to see the island kids mix so well with the boat kids. Can you believe Bear is nine years old already???

Trekking at Albert Bay

Today Jo, Bear and I went ashore to meet the family that lives on Albert Bay where we are anchored on Rabi Island. We had also heard of a jungle hike over the hill to the other side and hoped that someone would guide us there. Both of our goals were met - and then some.

Inside the home

Thatch roof house

We were welcomed ashore by Mariana, a 53 year old Fijian-Banaba native. Let me explain. Rabi (pronounced ram-bi) Island was used as a resettlement island for the people of Banaba Island (or Ocean Island in the Gilbert Islands, currently part of Kiribati) which was destroyed from over-mining phospates during WWII. The English, in their guilt, relocated the native Gilbertese people to this island in Fiji in 1945 where their 4,500 descendents now live. The current population has adopted some of the Fijian customs, such as kava drinking, but they also maintain their Gilbertese language and customs. The people have a more Asian look of the Micronesian inhabitants of the northern islands. Mariana's mother was one of these transplanted people and her father was Fijian.

The Old Man weaves a basket

Mariana immediately invited us into the nearby open-air, two-room, thatched roof house where we were introduced to “the old man” who sat on the matted floor rolling and smoking Fijian tobacco (as far as we could tell, it was only tobacco, not weed) with Mariana’s husband, Terri. “The Old Man” (which is how he was referred by his family) reminded us of Mr. Miachi from the Karate Kid. He had the same look about him: long, white hair hanging to his shoulders, a headband wrapping his head and eyes that twinkled with pleasure but were sage in depth. For an hour, we sat on the floor and learned about the family, the island and the history of the people. Mariana and The Old Man spoke fairly good English so we were able to understand most of what they said. Their mother tongue is the native language of Banaba.

Next to us, in the same room, was a raised platform area for sleeping. Underneath the platform, pigs slept lazily in the dirt while piglets rooted the soil. In one corner on the bed, two chickens roosted, protecting at least two eggs that we saw. The Old Man claimed to have nine pigs and we saw many chickens with chicks roaming the nearby area. Although these are good sources of protein, their core protein comes from the sea: fish, lobsters, clams, octopus, prawns, turtles and other shellfish. Daily we saw the men snorkeling or fishing in boats for food. They also harvest the sea cucumbers to sell for large sums of money ($40-$90 each!) that eventually go to Japan.

Living almost totally sustainably, the island provides the balance of their diet. For starch, they eat root vegetables (kasava and taro) and also breadfruit which grows on trees. Fruit grows in abundance in this climate as well: papaya, pineapple, bananas, coconuts and watermelon. The only thing that they are light on is green vegetables. Mariana pointed out some leave plants that they eat but it is rare to see the common green vegetables that North Americans are used to. Staples  like sugar and flour are purchased in town which is only accessible by boat.

Mariana explained that she and Terri are living with The Old Man temporarily until they build their own house a short distance down the beach. They had planned to start building today but instead offered to take us on the hike. Upon hearing this, we tried to forgo the hike but they insisted. “We can always build the house tomorrow,” they said.

“How long does it take to build a house?” we asked innocently.

Terri shrugged, “Three days, maybe four.”  We were stunned. But being in no hurry, we set off on the hike.

Terri cuts a coconut to drink

Our goal was up and over the hill to the bay on the other side of the island. Terri slashed our way through the jungle on a path identifiable only by him. Bear had his machete too but the vines and plants were too tough for him to make much difference. Mariana brought up the rear and pointed out plants along the way and explained their purpose. The trek over took an hour and the beach on the opposite side was empty of water as the tide was out. For this reason, Terri suggested that we walk around the island on the return and claimed it was equidistant to our hike over, except flat. This sounded good. But it turned out to be over two hours in the hot sun! Along the way, we saw lots of crabs, fire worms and brittle stars in the tidal waters. Terri climbed a coconut tree for coconut water refreshment along the way and Mariana picked some papaya for us.

Banana bunch from Terri

Terri (left) and Mariana (right) with family

Back at the house, we were all hot and tired. We sat with The Old Man again for a while and he ordered others to gather gifts for us. We left with a bunch of bananas (over 75 of them!), papaya, coconuts, kasava root and limes. We were humbled by how generous they were. In return we later brought in some kava, canned meat and purchased a fish from them. It was a fantastic cultural experience and we are grateful for Terri and Mariana’s hospitality on their lovely island.  

Rock Slides at Tavauni

A little bumpy on the butt but worth the fun! On the Taveuni Island natural water slides attract the local kids for some fresh water, slippery entertainment.

Which day is it?

The international dateline runs through the island of Taveuni.  In the photo, Ann is in Friday, Eric is in Saturday and Bear is split between the days!

Lovu at Viani Bay

School at Viani Bay

Many of the Fijian islands support small primary schools for the local village kids. The Fijian government promotes and funds education, yet the schools are primitive (by American standards) and resources are limited. We have had the opportunity to visit several schools in Fiji and found the children well-behaved and the teachers kind and organized. It is an uplifting experience and they are always so grateful for any school supplies we give them.

The local "school bus"

Viani Bay is home to one such school that currently educates 56 kids from the local area. There is no village here but lands owned by an extended family. Jack, our dive guide for the past week, is a member of this family and is highly involved with the success of the school, which his grandchildren attend. Last week, the school ran out of funds and the family needed to purchase fuel for “busboat” that shuttles the students to school. So this week, Jack organized a lovu feast for the "yachties" (as he calls people on the boats) and charged $20 per boat to raise money for the school. (A lovu is a method of cooking in a heated pit. Fish, chicken and root vegetables are buried in banana leaves earlier in the day and uncovered several hours later to reveal a succulent feast.) Nine boats participated for a wonderfully orchestrated, impromptu feast.

School let out at 3pm, after which the kids played games for an hour. Jack invited the kids from the boats to come in to participate and the feast would follow. Our kids had a tough time keeping up playing soccer in the heat of the afternoon with highly skilled players! But they had a blast!

Fijian food

All gathered around to watch as the men dug the food from the ground. The rich smells of roasted chicken mingled with the strong char smell of the fire. Banana leaves were peeled back to reveal the steamy meal and our mouths watered in anticipation. The food was served to us on plates woven from palm fronds while we sat in chairs brought from the classrooms to the waterfront especially for us. (The local people sat on mats on the ground, as is their custom). There was fresh fish, freshwater prawns, chicken, taro root and kasava (think dry yams), breadfruit (again, yam-like), a green leaf (like spinach) cooked in coconut milk, and fresh fruit (papaya, pineapple and bananas) for dessert. Delicious fresh coconut water, still in the nut, was the beverage. We were all pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality of the food (in comparison to another lovu we attended where the main dishes were a variety Ramen noodles with canned meat!).

Eric drinks kava

After dinner, the men set up a kava bowl on a separate mat and invited all to join in. Sitting around a kava bowl is like sitting at a bar. Everyone tells stories, throws back a shot (half coconut shell) of intoxicating liquid, and enjoys each other’s company. Oftentimes, there will be singing and hearty laughter. It is the main social entertainment, particularly for the Fijian men. Eric likes to partake in this ritual whenever he can.

It was all very inviting and friendly – and real. We learned later that funds were collected from all present, not just the yachties, and $460 was raised. We all felt good about that.