19* 48' S 174* 21' W
We left the Vava'u island group in Tonga and headed south 65 miles to the Haapi Group. We had an easy 1 day cruise with smooth flat seas and lots of whales around us. The majority of boats bypass Haapi and go straight south to Nukualofa, the capital of Tonga or continue west to Fiji. They chance to explore very remote islands convinced us to detour here.
The Haapi group consists of 62 islands scattered over 4000 sq miles of ocean. Only 17 of the islands are inhabited and only 4 of those have any conveniences like electricity, running water, or telephone. What Haapi lacks in modern living it makes up in natural beauty, coral reefs, history, and friendliness.
We anchored of the main town of Pangai on the island of Lifuka. This is the same spot where Capt. Cook anchored during his three visits to Haapi in 1773, 1774, and 1777. It was between here and the next island to our west that Capt. Bligh was given his 'bus transfer' from Fletcher Christian and he began his epic voyage in a small boat due to the mutiny on the Bounty.
We checked in with 'customs' in a classic wood sided tropical building. On the 8' long counter were three hand written signs indicating where to stand for post office, revenue office, or customs. The 3 people behind the counter each handled one function. The customs officer asked where we were came from, when we would be leaving, and to have a nice stay. We later met up with him at the only café in town where he was having a beer after work. He told us that they typically clear in only 60 boats per year along with some backpackers or divers who fly in on the occasional flight from Vava'u.
Today we will head a few miles south to another island. More to follow ........
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