Serendipitous Jo

Sometimes you meet someone you didn't know you were looking for until you meet them. That's how it was with Jo, who is now living with us on Oso Blanco.

 

Jo with Bear on her 37th birthday!

Friends on Mystery Ship, another 64 foot Nordhavn, hired a young woman as crew to help them with upkeep and cleaning. Upon hearing that, Eric's interest was peaked. Maybe we should hire some help? The upkeep (inside and outside) of a boat this size is a full-time job, systems maintenance is another full-time job and then there is our primary school on board. There are times it feels overwhelming and the goal of exploring the world takes a backseat. But do we want to live with someone else? In discussing it, we weren't serious enough to search for help, but decided to keep an open mind in case we happened upon someone.

 

When we returned to the boat in April, it was a pit and needed some major cleaning. We hired a day worker through our agent and Jo came to clean. That was a Friday. I got to talking with her and felt a really good vibe from her. She was in transition in her life, ending a few months of traveling in New Zealand and contemplating returning to her home country, England, but was open to other options. Trained as a professional yacht steward, she has experience on boats and loves being at sea. Intertwined with crewing, Jo has worked extensively as a English as a Second Language teacher to adults and kids in many interesting parts of the world over the years. But more importantly, she was cheery, warm and kind - a real energy-giver. We invited Jo to dinner and we all took to her as we listened to her amazing, free-spirited life. By Monday she'd signed on to come with us - at least as far as Vanuatu. 

 

It's been almost a month since Jo joined us and she has become part of our family. She inspires us in so many ways: to slow down and enjoy the little things, to not use plastic (she's very environmentally conscience), to eat more veggies (she's a vegetarian), and to keep the boat cleaner!

 

Bear has really taken to her too. She reminds us of Mary Poppins (or the modern English Nanny McPhee) with her kind discipline and patience. When not bogged down with cleaning projects, she grabs Bear for a music lesson or a field trip project. On the passage, she took over teaching completely and held Bear to task. For Eric and me, date nights have become more frequent which is wonderful!

 

With Jo we got much more than a "crew" member, we got a friend, a helper, a mentor and a teacher. Somehow, she was just what we needed....and maybe somehow we were what she needed too?

 

Fijian Primary School Visit - by Bear

Bear shows the kids where we're from

Our Fijian guide, John, took us on a tour of a school in Soso village on Naviti Island in Fiji. The school has approximately 60 kids and 5 teachers. All the kids are well behaved. We went to find out about the culture and the education. We entered all the classrooms, met the kids (there were more boys than girls), asked questions, and gave them some materials.

School times are 8:00-3:00 every day, but they get Saturday and Sunday off. They got to school for 14 weeks then get 2 weeks off. They get a 7 week Christmas break (sigh).

Their uniform is: the girls have a green dress and the boys have a white tee and a green sulu (a sulu is a skirt that the men wear - I have one!).

They use chalkboards and do not have desks. They have long tables instead. The school owns the textbooks and the kids can't write in them, so they can use the books for the next kids. The teachers teach all subjects and are very kind. They even let us give lollypops to the kids! All of the rooms are very old (you can tell because they are breaking down). The grounds have a net ball field and a rugby field. There are even teachers' quarters!

The trip was very fun. The people were very, very friendly. The kindergarten kids even sang for us! I really enjoyed the visit.

Sara and Paul Visit in Fiji

Paul and Sara Yungner with Ann and Eric

Good friends from home, Sara and Paul Yungner, got a taste of Fiji when they came to stay with us in May and we attempted to expose them to the various subcultures that is Fiji.

Fiji is comprised of 322 islands, of which only 100 are inhabited. On the big island of Viti Levu, one can experience modern Westernized life: the bustling city life in Nadi, five-star name brand resorts, and championship golf courses. Here the Indian and Fijian cultures co-exist and cell phones, motorized vehicles and all the conveniences of modern day living can be found.

Sara gives the thumbs up while snorkeling.

Take a short boat ride to nearby smaller islands and the resorts shrink in size and offer a range of amenities from primitive backpacker resorts to luxury accommodations. We took Paul and Sara to Musket Cove Resort on Mololo Island, one of our favorites from last year, where we met up with some sailor friends and lived the cruiser life for a couple nights. It was here that Sara first snorkeled among hundreds of brightly colored, friendly fish and Paul was reintroduced to diving after a decades-long hiatus.

Venturing still further out, we spent a night at anchor across from uninhabited "Cast Away" island, where the Tom Hanks movie was filmed. A few tourists stop by here on day trips but people were sparse and we were able to feel the true wilderness of island life with fruit bats soaring overhead, brilliant stars in the very dark sky and only the sound of the ocean waves to lull you to sleep at night.

Paul is greeted in the village of Soso on his birthday.

The next day, Paul donned a sulu (referred to by Eric as a "man skirt") to visit the village of Soso on the island of Naviti, in the southern end of the Yasawa group of islands. We were greeted on the beach with flower necklaces by a friendly Fijians and taken on a tour of the village. Then the sevusevu ceremony took place, during which we presented the village chief with dried kava root (which they make into a slightly intoxicating drink) and he, in return, gave his blessing to welcome us into the village. We partook in drinking kava from coconut shells, clapping ritually as instructed.

Traditional Fijian entertainment

Afterwards, we dined on traditional Fijian food, prepared for us by the women of the village. Unfortunately, the weather hadn't allowed for fishing that day and we were served noodle dishes with various canned meats - very unappetizing. However, the lack of a satisfying meal was compensated for by delightful entertainment of singing and dancing. We very much enjoyed the villagers and returned the following day to visit the 60 student school (see Bear's blog on Visit to a Fijian School).

Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course

Back to "civilization" on Viti Levu, we ended Paul and Sara's vacation at VJ Singh's championship golf course - Natadola Bay. This spectacular, ocean side course played well above our level - but the scenery was second-to-none and worth all the lost balls.

The time flew by, as it always does when you're with good friends and having fun!

Fiji Time

After 5 months of winter and the real world's pace, we are back in Fiji and readjusting to the warmth and tropical time warp.   The sea water temp in Auckland was 62* and here it is 83*!   Being surrounded by that warmth, the boat and the air never really cool much.  

 

Fiji time pretty well describes the pace of life here, especially anything official or part of the bureaucracy.   If a pencil rolled off a desk at the start of lunch hour, it would probably wait to hit the floor until lunch was over.   When we checked into Fiji last week,  the Captain was taking care of business at the customs office while our crew waited patiently for 3 hours 'quarantined' at anchor.   To continue the process, I had to go into town to an ATM to get Fiji cash for fees.   The customs guy called a cab and told him to quickly take me to a bank.   The cabbie asked me, "Are you on Fiji time or do you still think you are in a hurry?"   I told him the customs official wanted me right back.   He said not to worry, as long as I owed them money they would be there when I got back.   We then proceeded to pick up one of his friends and deliver him to the other end of town before heading to the bank and back to customs.   No worries.

 

In most countries we visit there are at least two ways to go through the clearance process with customs, immigration, health, and quarantine officials.   You can do it yourself or you can use an agent who knows the process, what buttons to push (or not to push), and is probably related to at least one of the officials.  There are benefits to both methods.  Using an agent can be relatively expensive ($400+ USD here in Fiji) but is typically much quicker and the officials seem to look with one eye closed.   Going the Home Depot 'DIY' route saves money and gives a much deeper insight into a culture.   Sometimes the appreciation you gain from these experiences isn't apparent until well after you have been sitting for hours in a number of hot offices where bureaucrats welcome you and then give you an occasional smile and let you sit while they take care of more pressing business and wait for lunch.

 

We had cleared into Fiji last year and my memory was that it was relatively simple and prompt.   Feeling the inspiration of Bob the Builder – "Can we fix it?  Yes we can!" I decided to go it alone.   I am still not sure where the process went astray, but Fiji time ruled and the 3 hrs the first day weren't enough to satisfy officialdom.    On day 2, I had to take a car back into town (45 min from the marina) and visit 3 additional offices.   I was instructed to go to the D.O.'s office (District Officer) to apply for a cruising permit.   This was a new one on me, but what the heck.  Cruising permits are a small part of the D.O.'s responsibilities.   Here in Lautoka, she also issues building permits and anything else one may need permission for, including burial permits that the lady in line ahead of me had been waiting 4 days for.  1 1/2 hrs later, I was informed that the application had been faxed to the capital in Suva and I could pick it up in three days.

 

With our cruising permit applied for, it was back to my new best friend at the custom's office for the final stamp of approval.  "What do you mean you don't have the permit?", he asked.   "I can't issue your papers without it."    I explained the process as I understood it, and he shook his head.   He then picked up the phone, called someone in Suva, and proved his authority when the permit arrived on the fax 10 min later. 

 

Including drive time, day two of our check in consumed another 3 1/2 hrs.  I got to wander the downtown streets of Lautoka in search of more offices and learn that Fiji time is not arbitrarily applied to foreigners as I listened to the newly widowed lady try to get permission to bury her late husband.   Cost to check in using and agent – $400 USD,  cost for DIY – priceless.    

 

Fiji Time

 

E

Fiji Arrival

We arrived Fiji on the west coast yesterday (Tues Fiji time)  and began the long, 3 1/5 hrs clearance process.   By the time we were all checked in and Fiji legal, we didn't get to the marina where Ann was waiting until 4 pm.   All and all a good passage with a great crew.   More to follow .....

 

E

Day 5

It's mid morning on Monday May 9 and we have less than 200 nm to go!   Since our rugged day, we have had 2 days and 3 nights of near perfect conditions.   Today, the winds are up a bit to 18 – 22 kts and have moved a bit forward to the beam.   Seas are running about 10 – 12 feet so life on Oso is a little more "active", but quite comfortable.   With only 24 hrs to go, we can take just about anything.

 

Yesterday afternoon we ended one of the longest droughts Oso has experienced – we actually caught a fish.   A 30" mahi mahi made a great dinner and there are a couple meals in the freezer.   Whether fishing from a row boat on Eagle Lake or dragging a line for 1000's of miles across the Pacific, I have been jinxed since our 2nd day out of Puerto Vallarta April 3, 2010.   Hopefully, this is the beginning of a successful season!

 

We hope to enter the pass through the reef around Fiji near 9 am tomorrow.   It's then 3 hrs to the town where we clear customs and immigration.   The clearing in process can be quick or may take hours, depending on the pace of officialdom, but we should be in the marina tomorrow night.   Ann has been hanging out at a small local resort near there and it will be great to all be back together tomorrow.

 

E

As usual ........

By now those of you following our wanderings know that after a shitty day (or days) at sea, King Neptune eventually figures we have paid our dues and once again the Pacific is restored to it's namesake conditions.   Sometimes that is hard to believe when we are in the middle of it all, but it is amazing how fast recovery can happen.

 

When we last left you, all four of us were searching out places to curl up and hang on for some rest.    Well ......... last evening things improved rapidly and with relatively smooth following sea conditions, we resumed our normal watch schedule and all got some rest.   Having two professional crew members means I get to pick my watch time, so I go to bed with Bear around 8 pm and am not on until 4 am.   As long as sea conditions do not include too much bouncing around, this is a luxurious schedule for me and last night I took advantage of it.    Bear slept over 11 hours!

 

Today we finally got to see a sun rise with clear skies, 10 –15 kts of following wind, and only 4 – 6' rolling swells that have continued to swing around behind us.   It is now 4 pm on Saturday and we have had a wonderful day.   The air is warming and we are cruising along with all doors and windows open.  The sea water temperature has warmed from 62* in Auckland to over 75* here.  

 

Arrival in Fiji is expected early Tues morning.

Seduction

Mother nature seduced us and lulled us into complacency giving us gentle mild conditions for our first 18 hrs out of Auckland.  Last night around 2 am our sweet dreams and wonderful meals were short circuited by wind on the nose of 25 – 30kts, gusting to 40, steep building seas and lots of rain.    By 4 am we were all out of bed, hanging on in the pilot house as Oso fell off wave after wave with a tremendous crash.   No worries about the boat in these conditions, she is built for them, however, these are the times you just wish you were somewhere else.

 

Since we have not been to sea in over six months and we get kind of careless about where things are stowed, the first good bash and crash quickly points out our storage mistakes.    Banging items in drawers, loose items crashing to the floor, and unidentified rattles and creaks are all part of a good night's thrashing about at sea.   Kind of like an extended earthquake.   It is now 12 hours after the winds and waves hit and it is settling down enough that we can find a secure corner to tuck into to get some sleep or find something bland and simple to eat.  The forecast for the next 6 – 8 hrs promises that the winds and seas will back around behind us and give a strong sleigh ride push instead of the current bash and crash.    Yeeeehaaa!

 

E

Day 1 at Sea

It is now 7am and we are getting our first ocean sunrise in many months.   We finally got out of Auckland at noon on Wednesday.    It was bittersweet leaving NZ, not knowing if or when we shall return.   Our first afternoon and night have been very mild with light winds and relatively smooth seas.   The boat is running perfectly after resting for 6 months and having a great deal of scheduled maintenance.

 

It was weird leaving Ann on the dock as we headed out, but our passage crew is doing well.   I actually got 8 hrs sleep the first night.  Having a 3rd person capable of standing watch makes the nights go quickly as we each have only 4 hrs 'ON' and 8 hrs 'OFF'.

 

Forecast is for seas to build today to 6' – 8', but they should be on our beam and the ride should be good.

 

Eric

Email reminder

Just a reminder to everyone that we now regularly only check our 'at sea' email.    Text only with no photos or attachments, please.

 

Eric

It's time to move on ......

It's hard to believe we arrived here in Auckland NZ 6 months ago.    We have had great adventures and met many wonderful people.  But, as always in our wandering cruising life, there comes a time to move on.

 

We have been waiting for over a week for a reasonable weather window to head north to Fiji and it looks like we will depart Auckland late morning tomorrow, (Wednesday NZ time.)    This will be an unusual passage because Bear and I will be joined by two experienced 'superyacht' crew members.    Ann has had a series of stomach issues and has undergone numerous medical tests.    Nothing serious has been detected, however, we feel it is best for her to fly to Fiji and wait for us there.

 

Our crew members, Jo and Sam, are both very experienced sailors and each has logged many sea miles aboard a variety of boats, including superyachts.   Sam is a Kiwi and will be making the 6 day passage with us and then return back to NZ.    Jo has become like one of the family and is planning on staying with us for a while in Fiji.    She is also trained and experienced in teaching and speaks multiple languages.   She is helping Ann with Bear's homeschooling and doing miscellaneous housekeeping.

 

Life aboard Oso Blanco has taken on a new look and feel as we head back to sea.    We'll keep you posted and try to do a better job of plotting our position on the blog.    

 

Eric