New Slide Shows

I posted three new slide shows on our blog: Fiji, North Island of NZ and South Island of NZ. Check them out!

Sheep World

Once in a while you go to a tourist trap and find out its worth it. Sheep World was such a place for us!

Historically, the sheep industry has been a huge part of New Zealand's culture, image and GDP. In the past quarter century, the dairy industry has taken over top title. However with only 4 million people and 40 million sheep living here, the ratio makes them highly visible and a lasting symbol of Kiwi life. At Sheep World, this agricultural icon was brought to life.

A sheep dog confronts the befuddled herd.

We learned that sheep dogs have different jobs based on their natural abilities and the farmers' needs. One dog's job is to gather the sheep by chasing them together into a pack while another directs them by simply barking incessently. In demonstrating their talents, you could see and feel the intensity and determination ingrained in these working dogs.



Bear helps shear a sheep.

Once gathered, shearing can begin. Sheep are sheared annually for their wool, sometimes twice. The going rate for a sheep-shearing is $1.40 per sheep. A professional shearer can shear a sheep in less than a minute. Do the math. Tough way to make a living, especially when you consider the toll it takes on your body to wrangle a 150 pound sheep around on the ground while shaving her. In the demonstration at Sheep World, the sheep appeared drugged as soon as the shearer put her on her back. She was so relaxed that he could move her like a ragdoll. It was amazing.


Bear feeds a ten day old lamb.

When newly sheared mom was put away, the babies were released. We were given bottle of milk and a dozen lambs poured into the barn. The smallest one made it to our bottle and nursed hungrily. They were so cute!

Pink Sheep?

Driving by Sheep World, you do a double take upon seeing pink sheep in the field. So what's with the color? One word: marketing. It started as a joke when the caretakers painted the sheep the colors of opposing football teams before a big game. The sheep got so much notice, they became a tourist attraction and increased Sheep World's business and became a local mainstay.

Going to Kiwi School (by Bear)

Yesterday I went to a Kiwi school with some new friends in New Zealand. The school was very big. I'm guessing there was thirty buildings. But most of them were pretty small. There were around 27 kids in the class I was in. It was my new friend's class. He is in the third grade but his class also had fourth graders in it. Most of the kids were very friendly and the teacher was nice. My friend introduced me to the class then I told about myself and the kids asked questions. I liked that part. We had computer time, game time and reading/writing. The day went very fast. I asked if I could go back the next day but I couldn't because we had to go home. I really liked going to a Kiwi school.

South Island

The last two weeks of November we spent traveling around New Zealand's South Island in a campervan, seeing the sights and getting to know the Kiwis. We found the scenery to be spectacular and the people to be charming.

Mount Cook

Our good friends, Andy and Liz Barrow, came from Mexico to tour with us. Even though the days were long from driving, the evenings at the campsites were filled with wine, good eats and laughs.

We had the fortunate opportunity to visit the sheep farm of the brother of our good friend, Andrew Parr (s/v Mulan). Michael and Jill welcomed us into their home with a great meal and tour of the working farm. Their front lawn made for a great campervan park for the night.

The Parr Family Farmhouse

We had two occassions to celebrate: Liz's birthday....




And Thanksgiving, which we ate at a Turkish restaurant....

The oddest Thanksgiving meal ever!

Highlights of the adventure included a full day cruising in Doubtful Sound where we saw penguins in the wild, a trip into a glow worm cave, a jet boat ride on the river, hiking on Fox Glacier, mud pools, hiking in the rainforest and mountains, and sightseeing tourists stuff!  All-in-all, a great trip!

Hiking on Fox Glacier

Bear's Adventure in Glow Worms Cave

I went to some glow worm caves in New Zealand. A glow worm is the larvae stage of a fungus gnat who only lives five days.

It is called a glow worm because it has a big light near its tail which is for attracting insects that will get snagged in their "fishing" lines that they put down. Then the larvae eat the insects.

It was 8pm when we went into the cave. It was very dark. In the darkest part we took a boat ride. All the glow worms were on the ceiling and looked like stars in the night sky. 

SEE YOU ON MY NEXT ADVENTURE!

Land yacht - Day 3

We flew to Christchurch on Monday where we picked up our NZ Land Yacht.   After getting 'checked out' with our new home, we loaded up with food, beer and wine and headed out to local RV park for the night.   Tuesday morning we wandered around Christchurch before heading south.   Our dear friend Andrew Parr, (from the sailboat Mulan) grew up on a sheep farm here on the south island, and he arranged for us t visit his brother and family at the family farm.  We parked our vans in the paddock and had a wonderful tour of the farm and a fabulous dinner.  

 

Wednesday we headed toward Mt Cook National Park and spent all day Thursday hiking in the park.   It is a spectacular park with 12,000' peaks rising out of the sea.   There are also numerous glaciers, snow fields, and rivers.   It is mid-spring here in NZ so the high alpine areas are in full bloom and beautiful.  Next stop will be further south in Queenstown, which is the gateway to the coastal fjordlands.

 

E

South Island

Today we are flying to Christchurch on the South Island where we will pick up a small campervan.   For the next two weeks, we will be exploring the South Island and work our way back to Auckland.  

 

E

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaa

Auckland calls itself the City of Sails and looking around, you would think the America's Cup was here last week.  Right next to our marina is the NZ Maritime Museum.   It houses "Black Magic" the ACC yacht that won the America's Cup and a wonderful memorial to Peter Blake, NZ's god of sailing.

 

Today, Andy and I sailed for two hours on NZL 41, an ACC boat that was one of Team New Zealand's trial horse boats.   What a rush!!  It was blowing 20kt gusting to 25 and the boat was rarely below 10-12 kts.   Everyone got a chance to be a grinder and to steer.   A dream come true!

 

E

Puert Vallarta - Auckland NZ Summary

Some totals from our cruising season:   April 1 - Nov 7  2010

 

Puerto Vallarta - Marquesas - Tuamotus - Tahiti - Bora Bora - Suwarrow - Tonga - Fiji - New Zealand

 

Total miles traveled:  8104 nautical miles  (9400 statute miles)

Total engine hours:  1108

Total generator hours: 2386 hrs   (1645 16kw,  741  25kw)

Average speed: 7.3 kts

Total fuel used:  9095 gals.   (Gen: 2300 gal   Main engine: 6795)   1.2 nm/g  avg      6.1 gph avg,    (+ elec generation)

 

NZ Arrival

We arrived in Auckland NZ at 7:45 pm on Sunday!   Our last day was a beautiful run down the coast.  

 

Our friend Peter VanCuylenburg, owner of a boat like ours, arranged with his brother for a fly-over welcome from the NZ Coast Guard.  They circled overhead, took photos, and radioed us a "welcome to NZ".  

 

The customs and quarantine officials met us around 8:15 and the check in was very friendly and quick.  This was by far the most welcoming and simple clearance we have ever experienced.   A few days prior to arrival here, we were required to submit an advance notice form with our details.   The customs official said he had googled our boat name and had been following our blog! 

 

We are now settled in the "viaduct" harbor where the America's Cup syndicates all had their bases during Cup defense here. We are right downtown in the center of activity and an overwhelming array of yacht facilities.  

 

Our passage from Fiji to Auckland was:  128 hrs,  1170 nm,  avg speed  9.1 kts @ 1650 rpm, (fuel use: don't ask)   This was the hardest and fastest we have pushed Oso Blanco for an extended period.   Nearly 1200 nm miles with 2-3 meter seas on or near the nose and the boat performed flawlessly.  We were safe, comfortable, warm, and dry.   Thank you, Nordhavn.

 

 

Did you know? (post by Bear)

Did you  know that out of the twenty+ types of paranhas, only five are carnivores?  The rest are vegetarians!The ones that are carnivores are scavengers mostly. They are not known to kill people.

We went to an aquarium in New Zealand. They gave a little presentation about all the fish in their tanks while they were feeding them. This is a Red Bellied Paranha. It is one of the vegetarians. All paranahs live in the rivers of South America. A paranah is one of the fish we did NOT see on our own.

Maybe 90% of the fish and other animals we've seen while snorkeling or diving in the ocean this year. 

We also did not see penguins on our own yet. (But we hope to because there are some in New Zealand.)

Home stretch

34 58 S   175 04 E

 

7 am Sunday Nov 7

 

After a partially bumpy night, the seas have once again settled down for our last 12 hours to Auckland.   We are running down the east coast of New Zealand about 40 nm off shore.    Every new landfall brings excitement, relief, and a sense of satisfaction, but today includes a lot of mixed emotions.  

 

Over 7 months ago we left Puerto Vallarta on a grand adventure.   By the time we tie up this evening, we will have logged over 8000 nautical miles, crossed an ocean, and had experiences we could not have even dreamed of.    In the next weeks we will take time to reflect back on this year, but one thing is certain - the dream lives on.    Stay tuned .......  

 

E

 

 

Back to reality

Saturday morning  31 17 S  175 33 E

 

Well, we had 36 hrs of smooth ocean bliss and time to wax philosophical.   Seems like King Neptune once again seduced us into thinking it was going to be easy.

 

A few hours ago we had a 180* wind shift with building seas and rain.  Nothing like a front to bring us back to reality.   Forecast is for 20-25kt on the nose with lumpy seas all the way into the barn.   Saddle up and hang on, cowboy.  330 nm and 36 hrs of fun.   Yeeeeeha!

 

Looks like we are back to ramin noodles and cookies.

 

E

Southern Cross

"When you see the Southern cross for the first time …"  or the next time. 

 There are nights at sea when all you want to do is see the sunrise.   Nights when you just hold on waiting for the next wave or blast of wind to shake your world.    You just want it to end.

Then there are nights like tonight.   There is no wind.   The Pacific lives up to its name.    The Milky Way blazes and is repeated in the surface of the sea.  The horizon disappears as sea and sky blend into one.   Any slight movement in the water, whether the slicing of the water as the boat drives forward or just the ripples on the surface set off a light show of pixy dust.    Countless microscopic critters glow and sparkle with the waters' movements setting off their bioluminescence.    

Everything is alive and glowing, yet all is at peace on the sea.   These are the nights sailors dream of.   This is why we bash into head seas and put up with hanging onto to anything within reach just to get a cup of coffee or make it to the head.

Tonight the Southern Cross is right in front of us near the horizon.   Yes, the autopilot and GPS are taking us straight south to New Zealand, but it is easy to imagine the early sailors following the heavens on nights like this.    

There is nothing around us that the sea doesn't provide.  No boats on the radar no distant lights.   As far as we can tell, there is not another person within hundreds of miles.  It is so dark that the slightest light from our boat can break the spell, so I dim down the instruments and turn off the running lights.   Now the world around us seems to explode with pinpoints of light in the heavens and deep into the sea.

Ahead are the distant guiding stars.   Behind us, our wake glitters and sparkles showing us we have been following a magic path.    Soon the first glow of the rising sun will break the spell.   Luckily, these are the nights we remember.

Day 3

24 05 S    176 27E

 

It is 7 am and Andy and I are 763 nm from Auckland.   Conditions remained the same through most of yesterday and overnight with 15-20 kt wind and 2-3 meter seas.   Not the best ride, but certainly not bad.   We have both adjusted to being at sea and the precooked meals Ann had sent are bright spots in our day.   Best part is we are averaging 9.5 kts toward our destination with a little current push.   

 

We have not seen another boat or ship since we left Fiji, however, we listen in twice each day to the HF radio nets and can talk to other folks on their way to NZ.    Last night we heard  boats we have been crossing paths with all season including, Freezing Rain, Stray Kitty, and Emily Grace.   Even though they are hundreds of miles from us, it makes it seem a little less lonely out here.

 

If our luck holds, we should arrive in Auckland Sunday evening NZ time.

 

E

 

 

1st morning at sea

20 17.9 S   176 55.0E

 

Our 1st 18 hrs at sea have been a rather rude reintroduction to life at sea.  The good news is our forecast has been accurate.   The bad news is the forecast still shows brisk wind and building seas for the next 24 hrs.   One prefers to ease into open ocean conditions gently, but as soon as we were out of the shelter of the islands of Fiji, King Neptune was waiting for us.   We had anticipated placid conditions since we had poured ample amounts of Kava into the sea the last few days in hopes of mellowing out Neptune.   Perhaps he figured out we were only dumping the grounds and sludge (stems and seeds?) from the brew we were preparing and is getting even.

 

Over night we had steady 20 - 30kt winds and 8 - 12' seas all on the port bow.   Sunrise has brought us some moderation, we were both able to get some sleep, and we are pushing Oso to shorten the trip as much as possible.   We are running at 1650 rpm and averaging around 9 kts.   This is only 1.5 kts faster than our usual more fuel efficient cruising speed, but it takes a whole day out of a 1200 nm passage.   I have reached for the throttle a couple times, but just can't make myself pull it back!    Rock on.

 

 

NZ here we come

Fiji  17* 40.9 S  177* 20.7 E

 

It is just after noon on Tuesday and we finally got through customs and immigration clearance.   Ann and Bear are off to a local hotel until they fly to NZ tomorrow, while Andy and I are getting underway.   The magic navigation box says 1150 nm to Auckland and the weather is forecasted to be OK for our passage.    The weather guessers say we should have winds in the 15 - 25 kt range and seas ranging 3 - 4 meters.   Not perfect, but not miserable,  either.   We intend to push Oso harder than usual on this passage and plan on running at 8 - 8.5 kts.  that should put us in Auckland in about 6 days.

 

Fiji has been a great place and we intend to be back here next year, after the cyclone season.

 

Eric

 

 

The Vonu Beer Tower

It's beer, it's cold and it's a tower. What more can you say?

Kat and Clay visit Fiji

Eric's daughter, Katherine (Kat) and her boyfriend, Clay, spent a week cruising the islands of Fiji with us where they experienced "real" Fiji in native villages.....

and snorkeled on Fiji's beautiful reefs.....

We especially liked it when the villagers dressed the men for church (Eric had his own sulu, of course, but Bear and Clay were lent skirts)!

We had a wonderful time with them and hated to see them leave so soon!

Mud Bear

Being a volcanic island, Fiji has many hot springs bubbling to the surface. One such place has capitalized on nature by offering "mud baths" in a natural hot pool. Driving by, we stopped to check it out. Bear was the only one with a swimsuit so he got in with a Fijian woman to lather up in mud to experience its "soothing and medicinal" qualities. Bear just found it slimey and prefered the neighboring clear, hot pool which felt "like the hot tub in Utah".

So much for boys wanting to play in the mud!

Religion 101

The diversity of Fiji's roughly one million people is visibly noticeable in the variety of religious edifices in the urban areas. On a recent trip to Lautoka, we visited four different places of worship - none which were Christian based.

The first was a Sikh Temple, which is a reformed branch of Hinduism begun in the 16th century. Sikh is much influenced by Islam and therefore reject the caste system and idolatry. The Sikhs are easily recognized by their beards and turbans. To enter the Sikh temple, we had to wash our hands, remove our shoes and cover our heads with kerchiefs provided at the door. The main "altar" area inside the temple reminded me of a raised four-post bed dressed in royal blue. No guide assisted in a tour so we were not able to learn more about the Sikhs.

Our second stop was a visit to James Mosque, of Muslim faith, which is a school as well as a place of worship. Upon entering, we followed the posted instructions and sought permission to enter. At first somewhat reluctant, the headmaster warmed to us, showed us the school and mosque and answered our questions. He was especially kind to Bear and engaged him in much conversation. Not being prayer time (which is five times daily) we entered the mosque. Women and men never pray alongside one another and women generally are not allowed in the central prayer area. Per our host's invitation, I cautiously stepped inside where two Muslim men were lying on the floor. One of them clearly was upset with my presence and exchanged words with our host. I offered to leave but our host stood firm and said I was welcome and to ignore these men. Some young male students came by and shook Eric and Bear's hands. They did not look me in the eye. It was uncomfortable for me as a woman to feel this prejudice because of my gender but it is part of their religious culture.

Across town, we stopped by the most prominet Hare Krishna temple in the South Pacific: Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple. Founded in the 1965 in the United States (and given a growth boost when the Beatle, John Lennon, joined), Krishna has its historical roots in Hinduism. Most of us identify Krishna's with the bald, orange robed men in airports. Their mission is to spread their spiritual knowledge and techniques to the population at large, especially through dance and song. With less than one million members worldwide, the Krishnas numbers are relatively small yet they are visible in society. Interestingly, Fiji has the highest percentage of Hare Krishnas in the population of any country in the world. We were disappointed on our visit as the temple was closed and no people were present.

Our final temple tour was the Sri Siva Subrahmaniya Swami Temple in Nadi. This colorful South Indian-style temple is the largest and finest of its kind in the South Pacific. Built by the Hindus in 1994, visitors are welcome if dressed appropriately: legs and arms covered, shoes removed, modesty and good behavior at all times. However, we did learn through experience (as my calves and arms were prominently displayed) that paying the entrance fee pretty much waived the rules. The interior of the temple was very impressive with beautiful hand painted murals on the ceilings, individual shrines to various gods and mosaic rock patterns adorning the walls. Bear thought the bright colors made the place look like a circus!

Not knowing much about non-Christian religions, we found the day fascinating and left us with the desire to learn more. We never thought that Fiji would be a place to explore this religious diversity!

Tui (like you're spitting)

In the village of Yalobi on Waya Island, we met 62 year old Tui who became our friend and guide. Insatiably curious, Tui engaged us on the beach with questions about our boat. After strongly hinting how much he'd love to see the inside of a "yacht like that", we invited him home with us where Bear gave him the nickel tour. We almost had to retrieve Tui's chin from the floor when he stepped into the salon. He seemed frozen in awe and kept repeating, "a floating house".

The following morning Tui led us on a hike up the mountain for "great views and lemons". After eight months of drought, we'd just experienced two days of downpour and consequently the trail was slick with mud. We scampered up the inclines in our Keens while Tui made the trip flawlessly in paper thin flip-flops. The views from the top were spectacular but the lemons were dry as bones.

Sevusevu

When visiting the remote islands of Fiji, it is customary to pay respects to the village chief with an offering of kava root and to receive his blessing to enjoy his island. This ceremonial process is called sevusevu. Once blessed, you are welcome to explore the island, swim the reefs and even fish.

We made our first sevusevu at the village of Yalobi on Waya Island. Upon anchoring we dressed appropriately - no trousers or shorts for women and their shoulders must be covered, long trousers for men, no hats or sunglasses when you are talking to people or in their homes - and went ashore. We were greeted on the beach by a local man and directed to the chief's house. All along the way, everyone shouted "Bula" to us and we felt very welcome. The chief, named Tom, invited us into his house and to be seated on the mat on the floor. We presented three bundles of kava which he gratefully accepted and made a blessing in Fijian of which the only word we understood was "vinaka" which means "thank you". Tom asked about us and we learned about the village. Yalobi has roughly 300 residents and shares the island with three other villages. Adjacent to Yalobi is a primary boarding school which houses 130 kids, ages 6-12. There is a resident nurse who travels to the neighboring villages when she has fuel for the boat. After sevusevu with Tom, we explored the village and met the local nurse, bought a box of milk at the only store and wandered paths through thatch huts and concrete houses. After two days of pouring rain, the colorful laundry, bedding, cushions and rugs that were hung out to dry added a festive mood to the place.

UGGs (written by Bear)

We went to the UGG factory in Fiji. At the UGG factory they make boots called UGGs. They can make a pair of boots in about twenty minutes. They are made out of merino sheep skin. The skins are soaked in salt water for one week so that the bad smell comes off the skins. They are good for cold weather. They started making them for fighter pilots in WWII to keep their feet warm. The name, UGG, comes from the initials of the creator which was U.G.G. I got the boots that are in the picture. And we got some little boots for my niece.

Men in Skirts

It is customary in Tonga and Fiji for men to wear traditional garments that we would call skirts.   It is interesting to see men wearing "dress up" western shirts, ties and sport coats along with these skirts.   We have seen some of the local Mormon missionaries wearing their white dress shirts, black ties, and long black skirts.    In our continual efforts to become part of local cultures, the men of Totem, IO, and Oso Blanco have purchased man skirts' and wear them proudly.   Check out this link to see us action  http://www.flickr.com/photos/giffordclan

 

E

 

 

Roti Lady

Move over out French Baker, here comes Roti Lady! As in Barre de Navidad, Mexico, where we were greeted each morning with fresh croissants, here in Port Danarau, Fiji, the Roti Lady traverses the dock after sun-up pandering flavorable Indian-spiced fillings wrapped in flour tortillas (called rotis). Our favorites are pumpkin and egg. The one called "vegetable" can have anything in it. When it's potatoes, it's awesome, but the eggplant was too gooey! At just two Fijian dollars each ($1USD), it's the best value in Denarau!

Fiji Golf

Golf in Fiji is similar to home - and different. Here there are mongooses running across the fairways instead of squirrels. Water hazards are fed by a salt water river in which we saw coral and puffer fish. And the measurements are in meters instead of yards - which fortunately was pointed out to us before we began! Otherwise its like home where the course "eats" golf balls, trees still block the perfect shot (albeit palm trees instead of pine), and the dubious gravitaional pull of sand traps suck your balls in. Man, I love the game!

Fancy versus Exclusive

We're sitting in an anchorage between two resorts on Malolo Island, Fiji. It's guest turnover Saturday and the transports are continually arriving. Float planes taxi up to the dock at Malolo resort and spit out people to guitar playing resort hosts. Closer to us, helicopters hover, awaiting their turn on the helipad to deposit guests to the Likuliku resort. Here lies the difference between a $1000 per night abode and the $250 per night.

 

When we docked our dinghy at Likuliku resort (where no children are welcome), we were told in no uncertain terms that "walk-in patrons" are not allowed. We were discouraged from even walking into the compound to check it out. We could see the infinity pools and white clothed tables from afar but we were not to experience it firsthand. However, we were invited to visit their sister resort, Malolo, just around the corner.

 

At Malolo resort we received the opposite treatment. The restaurant host said, "As soon as you set foot upon our sand, you become part of our family." Families played noisily in the pool in a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. We were welcome to explore and come back anytime.

 

Isn't it better to be welcome where you don't have to spend as much money anyway?

A Couple of Degrees

Wow! What a difference a few degrees makes! Fiji's climate is ideal for being in the water. The air temperature hovers around 85 degrees and the water temperature is about 82 degrees. Rather than getting out because we're cold, we swim until we're too tired! The wetsuits are put away - only skins for sun protection. It's awesome!! 82 degrees - that's now the magic number!

Bula!

Bula! That's the standard hearty Fijian greeting that makes you feel welcome and happy! The literal translation is "life" and is a shortened version meaning "to your good health". "Bula" shows up everywhere - on beer mugs, t-shirts, signs. It has become the country's slogan for tourism and it's such a warm and inviting word, so easy to say and infectious. Every country should have a word like "BULA"!

Vanua Levu Island

Yesterday we toured the island of Vanua Levu with Jimmy, our Fijian guide, and learned much about Fiji and its people.

Vanua Levu is the second largest island in Fiji and has two distinct climates zones divided by an interior mountain range. On the damper southeast side, copra farming (coconuts used for oil) is the main agricultural industry while sugarcane and pine forests grow in abundance on the dryer northwest side. On the north side, miles of narrow railroad tracks criss-cross the countryside for the sole purpose of transporting sugarcane to the large government-owned mill. The island is littered with small Fijian villages and a main market town on each side of the mountain range. Labosa, the northern town, was our main destination for the tour where we meandered through the market while Jimmy identified unfamiliar fruits and vegetables for us. Savusavu is the market town on the southeast side, where we are anchored in its harbor.

Near the towns, you will find many Indo-Fijian people - descendents from indentured laborers recruited in the late 19th century to work the sugar fields. Although the Indo-Fijians and native Fijians have developed a peaceful co-existence on Vanua Levu, their distinct cultures continue to be obvious in dress, language, religion, food and customs. For example, no Fijians work on Sundays but the Indian shops are open. In other parts of Fiji, tensions between the races continue to be a contentious political matter even 125 years later. Having become an independent republic (under the Commonwealth of Nations and the Queen of England) in 1970, government instability has plagued Fiji ever since, with full blown coups as recently as 2006. The balance of power between Indo-Fijians and Fijians is out of whack. Fijians own most of the land while Indo-Fijians dominate commerce. Even though racial tensions here are subdued, we heard prejudice in our guide Jimmy. He warned us that Indian merchants will charge higher prices to tourists, a practice he found dishonest and dispicable. (We experienced this ourselves when Eric bought the same batteries ranging from $2 to $15!) He told us Fijians do not care about money. They strive to earn only what they need and no more. Indians want more and more, a concept Fijians, and much of native South Pacific, do not understand.

Another tour stop was to Naag Mandir, a Hindu temple designed around a serpent-shaped rock that represents the Hindu snake god. This rock reportedly grows, so much that the roof of the temple has had to be raised to accommodate its larger size. Never having seen a Hindu temple before, I was intrigued by its bright colors and amusement-park architecture qualities. At the top of the 108 steps to view manequin representations of importants gods, I expected there to be a water slide. Each step represents a blessing so the steps were built half-size to create more steps and make climbing easier. Two young Indian girls were there pouring milk offerings to the snake god and others had left food. One of Jimmy's sisters converted to Hinduism so he was able to explain some of the rituals. It seems to be an interesting religion.

Our final stop was the Palmlea Lodge built five years ago and run by friendly ex-cruisers, Joe and Julie. Lunch was fabulous and I got an Indian Pumpkin recipe from the Fijian cook. Bear and I swam in the lap pool while Joe told Eric about his Boer goats that he is breeding to increase the meat yield per animal.

We are just beginning to explore Fiji but so far we are loving it!

Tonga recap

As I made my final morning jog through the streets of Neiafu this morning, I reflected on our six weeks in Tonga. We certainly enjoyed our time here - especially our week with good friends from the states, Paula and Tom Millar, and our island adventures with cruiser friends on Totem and IO. However, I leave with a strange feeling of negativity that is difficult to explain and makes me sad.

 

There are two distinct worlds attempting to co-exist in this small country: the native people and the ex-pat community, referred to as palangi (foreigner). The fallout of the collision of these polarized cultures has resulted in an uncomfortable setting. One Tongan woman, Ana, described the relationship between Tongan and palangi, "The palangi....," she scoffed, "they fight among themselves all the time. They always want to take each other to court. Tongans don't do that. We just laugh at them." Although it is not fair to categorize all palangi together, many in Tonga seem to have a superior attitude. They want to live in paradise and make a decent living. So they exploit this beautiful country and its natural resources, including the whales. They charge American prices but pay Tongan wages. Many don't bother to learn the Tongan language. On the morning cruisers net, they inappropriately bicker about petty things. Frankly, my uncomfortable feeling comes from being embarrassed by the fact that I am a palangi myself and somehow associated with "them". I even felt the Tongan people were not as friendly to me because I was one of "them". I wanted to get away from "them"! 

 

Being anchored away from the town (Neiafu) was a completely different feeling. On many islands, we visited villages, attended traditional feasts and went to churches and schools. We went diving, snorkeling and hiking.  The people were welcoming and sincere. In the Hapai group of islands we met palangi who were not saddled with the pettiness of Vavau. It was refreshing and pleasant. I felt disassociated with the full-time palangi of Vavau and that uncomfortable feeling dissipated. When I remember Tonga, these are the feelings and memories I hope will resurface from my time here.

 

Ann - September 14, 2010

SCUBA

Bear logged his tenth dive in Tonga when we went SCUBA diving with friends from Delos and Ghost. An octopus came within two feet of Bear at the end of the dive!

 

Karting around Tonga

For Ann's birthday, we rented go-kart type vehicles and toured the island of Uta Va vau. These karts will go anywhere! We zoomed through villages, carreened around jungle dirt roads and skidded down sandy beaches!

Beer Keg Raft

Our friends on Delos and Ghost stocked up on these awesome Heineken beer kegs in Papeete. Having consumed a couple dozen, it was time to put the empties to good use. A day at the beach resulted in the Beer Keg Raft, test piloted by Bear.

The Millars visit Tonga

Our good friends, Paula and Tom Millar, came to visit during our first week in Tonga. We had a fabulous time exploring caves and the nightlife in Neiafu.

Below, Bear and Ann enter Mariner's Cave.

 

 

Tom got a little fresh with one of the Faka Ladies!

La Paella and the Goat

Last night we joined friends from s/v Delos and Ghost at La Paella, a remote Spanish restaurant on the island of Tapana (anchorage #11). A couple from Spain serve a four course meal featuring their tastey paella creation consisting of flavored rice mixed with various meats: pork, chicken, mussels, shrimp, etc. Halfway through dinner, a full-size she-goat casually sauntered into the restaurant and nuzzled around the patrons. If appropriate attention was not rendered quickly, the nuzzle became a progressively aggressive head-butt to the thigh! Unphased by the goat's appearance, the Spanish couple took the stage and played some Brazilian classics for us. Soon the goat climbed on-stage to join the band and stole the show! We thought it was pretty damn funny!

Ann - September 11, 2010

Sea Cucumbers

Sea cucumbers are one of the grossest looking and feeling things lying on the sandy ocean bottom. They are long and thick, like a cucumber, but they are very squishy to the touch, almost like holding solid Jell-O. Mostly they are black and look like big, unsightly turds lying in the white sand. Bear loves to pick them up as they are harmless. If the animals become too frightened they expel their apparently untastey guts as a defense mechanism. Very gross! Sea cucumbers are cleaning agents to reefs and are important for keeping them healthy. Some places abound with them - so many that it's difficult to walk in shallow waters without stepping on them. There are many types of sea cucumbers, some spiky, some colorful, and some grow very large (like those rice-filled neck heaters). But all in all, they are necessary to the ecosystem but fairly benign and not useful to the locals.

 

China has another take on these creatures. Like pricey caviar requiring an acquired taste, sea cucumbers have become a status symbol and are considered a delicacy in China. The government of Tonga has recently issued harvesting licenses to some Chinese companies. The result has been a depletion of the sea cucumbers in Tongan waters and some Toganese reaping great financial benefits - in the short run. We have heard that each sea cucumber is worth between $30-70 Tongan dollars ($15-35 US). (Rarer species are worth more.) An average Tongan worker makes about $30 USD Tongan per day so the appeal to locals is understandable.

 

Sea cucumber harvesting seems to be a new endeavor so the result on the environment is yet unknown. However, some local pelangi (foreigners) warn this practice could endanger the reefs. And certainly the local economy is being skewed. People the world-over are not immune to ruining their environments in the pursuit of money. When you see it happening in current times, it is difficult to not be, at the least, annoyed, at the most, enraged. In the future, these slimy, unsightly necessary creatures may

Passage to Fiji

18* S   176* 29' W

 

It's early morning of the day after the night before.   Ocean passages seem to stimulate the writing urge.  I'm sure it's more from boredom rather than any great philosophical awakening!

 

We left the Kingdom of Tonga at noon yesterday (Tuesday here, Monday for most of you).   We knew the weekend had come and gone because the internet had a bunch of NFL week 1 scores.  Go Pack Go (Oh come on now Brett, enough is enough already).

 

It always takes a day or two to readjust to life at sea after being in protected anchorages for an extended period.   We had been in Tonga for almost 6 weeks and grown comfortable with a normal daily schedule of doing boat maintenance, Bear's schooling, and afternoon adventures with friends from other boats.    As one starts to prepare for another passage the weather becomes the focal point and we try to wait for a relatively docile forecast.     The sailors want ideal wind strength from the perfect direction with gentle seas.    We "stink boaters" would like conditions similar to an early July morning on Eagle Lake when you can hear a goose fart across the lake.   

 

No matter what you want, ideal passage weather is rare and short lived.   For most of the time since we left Mexico in April we have been in tropical trade wind regions.   This is generally supposed to be 15-20 kt winds from the E or SE accompanied by 4-8' seas.  This is nearly ideal for the sailors and  pretty comfortable for us, when it actually happens.    We left Tonga with a 2-3 days prediction for 'normal' trade winds and looked forward to a good crossing.     Yesterday the conditions were as forecasted and we were able to get comfortable and readjusted with the continuous rolling of the big blue sea.     As the sun went down last night, we experienced a number of rain squalls accompanied by 30-35 kt winds.    Rain squalls and thunderstorms at sea develop in  a number of different ways.   Sometimes they seem to just pop up out of no-where.   Other times you can see them for what seems like hours as they slowly approach, engulf you, and then slowly drift away.    Night storms are a different experience.   On a cloudy night there is little to see outside the boat and we travel in our own little world.    There is a Star Wars feeling with the red glow of all the instruments and navigation equipment and the constant sweep of the radar screen.   We often go days without seeing another boat or even a blip on the radar.   

 

Last night was one of those dark and stormy nights where the radar was lit up like the doppler radar at your local TV station.    On our boat radar, rain shows up as bright yellow or orange depending on intensity.   As squalls develop and approach, the soft gentle red glow of the screen comes alive with bright swaths like paint had been splattered on glass.    It becomes hypnotic watching these bright blobs slowly approaching.     We are sometimes tempted to try to outsmart the squall and change direction to avoid it, but that is futile.       There is no way to know how strong they are or if they are going to change direction, grow bigger, or sometimes just evaporate.   As you stare at the screen it is easy to convince yourself that the storm is stalking you in slow motion, but the weather - like the sea - is impersonal and unaware of our presence or concerns.    When the leading edge arrives with the initial blast of wind and rain our boat seems to suddenly get very small.    There is no such thing as a "big enough" boat on the open ocean.  

 

Approaching squalls with lightning are a different thing and give heightened worries.   A close strike could wipe out the electronics we are so dependent on for navigation and operating the boat.   Even the basic controls are electronically controlled.   An approaching thunder storm gives additional warning besides the bright splash on the radar as we watch the light show in the clouds.    There are a lot of theories about what a small boat should do when lightening is approaching.   Our basic preparation includes turning off redundant navigation equipment, disconnecting backup radios, and shutting down electrical breakers to unnecessary equipment.   None of this would help in a direct hit, but our hope is to minimize damage and have backup systems for basic functions.    We are also equipped with what amounts to a lightening rod that goes from the top of the mast directly down to the sea water.    So far, we have been lucky and have not seriously tested our theories or preparation.   

 

Last night was another night that we got to go through our preparation drill.    Luckily, the light show stayed in the clouds, the wind and rain came and went, and by the time it was over we could sit back and reflect on how beautiful and powerful nature can be.

 

E

Departing Tonga

18* 39'S  174* W

 

It has been a fun 5+ weeks in the Kingdom of Tonga.    It is an interesting mix of remote out islands and expat bars and restaurants.    After our friends on Totem and IO left 2 weeks ago, we hooked up with Victoria, Delos and Ghost.    We got in a lot of snorkeling and 2 scuba dives this past week.   We also visited a number of small villages and left school supplies with the teachers in the villages' one room school.  The kids always get excited to have visitors off the boats and want to practice their English, sing us songs, and demonstrate their traditional dances.

 

Today, we are in the process of checking out of Tonga and heading 400 nm to Fiji.   Forecast is for 18-22k winds and 7-10' seas, all behind us, so it should be an OK passage.    Leaving Tonga arouynd noon should put is Savusavu, Fiji late afternoon in two days.

 

E

 

Haapi

19* 48' S   174* 21' W

 

We left the Vava'u island group in Tonga and headed south 65 miles to the Haapi Group.   We had an easy 1 day cruise with smooth flat seas and lots of whales around us.    The majority of boats bypass Haapi and go straight south to Nukualofa, the capital of Tonga or continue west to Fiji.   They chance to explore very remote islands convinced us to detour here.

 

The Haapi group consists of 62 islands scattered over 4000 sq  miles of ocean.   Only 17 of the islands are inhabited and only 4 of those have any conveniences like electricity, running water, or telephone.    What Haapi lacks in modern living it makes up in natural beauty, coral reefs, history, and friendliness.   

 

We anchored of the main town of Pangai on the island of Lifuka.   This is the same spot where Capt. Cook anchored during his three visits to Haapi in 1773, 1774, and 1777.   It was between here and the next island to our west that Capt. Bligh was given his 'bus transfer' from Fletcher Christian and he began his epic voyage in a small boat due to the mutiny on the Bounty.  

 

We checked in with 'customs' in a classic wood sided tropical building.  On the 8' long counter were three hand written signs indicating where to stand for post office, revenue office, or customs.    The 3 people behind the counter each handled one function. The customs officer asked where we were came from, when we would be leaving, and to have a nice stay.     We later met up with him at the only café in town where he was having a beer after work.    He told us that they typically clear in only 60 boats per year along with some backpackers or divers who fly in on the occasional flight from Vava'u.   

 

Today we will head a few miles south to another island.    More to follow ........

 

E

 

 

 

 

Video from Swarrow

A friend of ours, Mike from s/v I.O., made this video of our time in Swarrow. Check it out!

 

http://aboardio.blogspot.com/

 

 

Zebra Sharks

We were snorkeling in Tonga near a small island and we saw zebra sharks. Zebra sharks eat shell fish and other stuff on the bottom of the ocean. They are usually not dangerous to people. They are spotted but the juveniles have stripes. The ones we saw were mostly spotted and their tails were very long.

 

Posted by Bear

 

KAVA

Among the rituals and traditions in Polynesia is the drinking of Kava.   Kava is a tea like beverage (tastes like mud) that is both part of religious and social ceremonies and an everyday relaxer.   Kava comes from a root that is usually ground and dried into a powder.    It is then mixed with water and strained through a cloth to get the big chunks out.

 

Kava is a mild narcotic and depending how potent the root or how strong it is mixed it's effect can range from  a mild numbness in your lips and mouth to making you unable to get up off the floor.   Traditionally kava has been reserved for the men who sit on a large mat on the floor with a wooden bowl of kava in the center.   They sit and solve the issues of the world while they pass around coconut shells of the brew.   The effects are definitely those of a tranquilizer, not hallucinogenic or like alcohol.   All in all, a very mellow experience!

 

Kava is a normal part of life in the South Pacific and the raw roots as well as bags of the powder are sold in the local market.   One of the fancier restaurants here in Vava'u has two nights each week where they have local musicians for evening entertainment.   The performers sit on the floor playing their stringed instruments and have a large bowl in the center.   Restaurant patrons, men and women, are welcome to come sit with them and partake of a bowl (or more).   The whole experience has a rather mystical feel as one takes their shoes off and sits cross legged on the mat.    The approved method is to chug the contents of the bowl which ellicits approval and clapping from the rest of the circle.

 

Every afternoon, in front of the police / fire station, the officers and firemen are all sitting outside around a bowl.  It's their equivalent of after work happy hour.   We had an unexpected kava experience on the island of Lupe where we attended a Sunday morning church service.    There are only 5 families on this island and the Methodist church was very small.   We arrived with some other boaters a bit early for the service and noticed the women and children milling around the church.   The 6 men of the village were sitting in a small open sided shack with the large bowl in the middle.   They were all dressed in their Sunday best and they invited us (men only) to join them.  3 of us slipped off our sandals and joined the circle.   As they passed around shells of kava one of the men quietly murmured prayers in Tongan.   When the time for church approached, all of us, including the minister, shared one last cup and headed into the church.   Definitely a religous experience ........

 

E

 

 

 

Kingdom of Tonga

18* 39.4 S  173* 59.4 W

 

 

It has been two weeks since we last updated this blog!  Here in Tonga, communications have been marginal and we have been in the more remote outer islands.  

 

We arrived in Tonga after a good 4 day passage from Suwarow.  We still have not gotten over leaving Suwarrow and often wish we had stayed there longer.    Two days after our arrival here, Tom and Paula Millar joined us for a week of exploring the outer islands.    They were our first guests to visit since our arrival in the South Pacific in mid April and we were very happy to see them!

 

Tonga is an interesting country divided up into 4 island groups.   We are in Vava'u, which is the main tourist and boating area.   Tonga is the last remaining Polynesian monarchy and has never been under foreign rule.   There is an interesting mix of cultures here with the out islanders and traditional Tongans wearing long skirts with woven mats around the waist and a large community of expats (mostly Aussies) controling most of the tourist businesses.   Over 1/2 of all Tongans live a basic subsistance life growing, gathering, or trading for their food.   Outside of the expat areas, Tonga is a very conservative religious country.   On one small island we visited, there were 35 families and 5 churches - mostly Methodist and Mormon. 

 

While cruising in the Vava'u group it is easy to forget you are in the ocean - except for the whales and and other sea life!   There are over 60 islands which are mostly high and heavily wooded.   If you ignor the fact that many of the trees are palm trees, it looks like being in British Columbia or the Apostle Islands in Lake Superior.   The bays and anchorages are very protected and provide great swimming on coral reefs as well as calm nights.   A number of the outlying islands have small villages which we have visited to meet the local folks, visit the schools, and try to appreciate "fakatonga" (the Tongan Way).    One ilsnad had only 5 families living there, yet they had a Methodist Church and a school with 5 students and the teacher.    They invited us and some other boaters to come to their Sunday church service and have lunch with them.   We arrived with 25 boaters (yachties, as they call us) and overwhelmed their hospitality.    After church - all in Tongan - they shared a feast on the beach of local dishes prepared from fish, chicken and even a whole roasted pig.   There was no cost to us for this wonderful day.   They only asked for donations toward construction of a new dock for the village.

 

In contrast to the island villages is Neiafu, the main town in the Vava'u Group.   Neiafu is the commercial, tourist, and government hub of this region, yet it remains a small town with funky souvnir shops, expat run restuarants bars and diving / whale watching services, and 3 boat charter services, including Moorings.  There are a number of small grocery stores and a traditional local market were we can get local vegetables, fruits, and traditional crafts.    During the boating season there are always at least 40 - 50 visiting cruising boats anchored off the town so the local cruiser hangouts are busy.  

 

We expect to leave the Vava'u Group this week and visit a much more remote area a bit south of here called Haapi.   We plan on heading further west to Fiji in about two weeks.

 

more to follow ..........

 

E

 

 

Goodby Suwarrow

Suwarrow atol has been one of the most beautiful and wonderful places we have visited. Today was a misty eye departure as we left not only the spectacular physical beauty of the place, but the warmth and friendship of James and Apii, the park rangers based there.

We have had 10 days of wonderful diving, snorkeling, spearfishing, and dinners on the island. The reefs and coral are the most pristine we have seen anywhere.

Today we are beginning a 700 nm passage to Tonga. We expect to arrive in about 4 days and will cross the international dateline, so we will be in Tonga on Sunday morning. Weather the last week has been unsettled across this stretch of the Pacific, but we have been watching it closely and hope for a good ride. Current forecast is for 15 kt winds and 6'-9' seas on our beam.

E

Sharks, again ...

Since coming to the South Pacific we have experienced very few snorkeling or diving expeditions that haven't included sharks. We've grown accustomed to seeing them and have come to rely on their normal behavior. For the most part, they simply meander through the water and pay little attention to people. Sometimes they come in for a closer look but with any sudden movement they will dart away. They are truly more afraid of people than vice versa.

Here in Suwarrow we've added spear fishing to the adventure and shark behavior has changed. Eric has related several nail-biting stories about close encounters with various sharks. This morning, I had one of my own - although no spear fishing was involved.

Hearing there was nice coral right in the anchorage here in Suwarrow, my friend, Behan, and I went snorkeling. Just fifty yards beyond the outskirts of anchored boats, we approacned a reef. Soon we spotted a very commonly seen four foot blacktip shark which we've come to regard as puppy dogs. No problem. A little closer and a five foot whitetip shark came into focus and it was swimming rapidly toward the reef. Hmmm. That isn't so comfortable but we continued. Then out of nowhere a seven foot gray reef shark was swiftly coming straight at us! Behan and I were in arms reach of each other and we both dropped back on our butts with legs extended in the shark's direction and kicked our fins. The gray turned back, wagged its tail at us a couple times then whirled around and came at us again! We kicked harder this time and he retreated and so did we. Apparently this was HIS reef and we were NOT welcome. Not wanting to seem like a wuss, I said to Behan, "I'm uncomfortable." She immediately concurred and we agreed to swim to the closest boat and catch our breath. I gulped a mouthful of saltwater as I propelled myself with rapid speed to m/y Emily Grace where we climbed aboard and relayed our story.

On our swim back to Oso, we encountered a puppy dog blacktip who now seemed more like a pitbull. We cut the swim short….

Fish Killer

Landing in the wilderness of Suwarrow has given us the opportunity to live off the land/sea. In addition to hunting coconut crabs, Eric has learned to spearfish. Yesterday he got his first kill and now he's hooked! It's been a grand learning experience for us all.

Our friends on Mulan (who are currently in transit to Seattle) had passed on their spear gun to Oso before leaving the South Pacific. Equipped with gun, Eric joined the ranger, Apii, and our friends Jamie (s/v Totem) and Mike (s/v IO) for the hunt. Paired with Jamie, Eric's primary role became shark watcher. As soon as the first kill is made and fish blood pours into the water, the sharks instantly appear and they are ready to eat. When the hunter gets the kill, he immediately shoots to the surface, holds the fish above the water and jams back to the boat as fast as his fins will propel. There the boat tender will unload the fish from the spear. The hunting partner's job is to make sure the sharks stay safely away from the killer and his fish. Yesterday we had the kids with us and when several whitetip and blacktip sharks decided to hang out below the dinghy and wait for the kills to return, we called the kids in from the water. Niall and Bear continued to venture out with the hunters and watch the process from above. However when the sharks became too active, we pulled them out as well. It only took a half hour for three men to get eight fish for the evening's dinner. By then the sharks were near frenzy as Jamie had wounded a grouper but failed to reel it in. Score one for the sharks. It was time to go.

Being inexperienced, Eric's first several shots bounced right off the fish. But he got the hang of it and we all cheered when he came up with a nice sized grouper on his spear. Hoo-ha!

Back on shore, Apii showed us how to clean the various types of fish. There were parrot fish, grouper, bluefin travaley and another unidentified specie. For dinner, we fed three families poisson cru (raw fish in lime and coconut juice) and many types of grilled fish. It was excellent and we all felt satisfied with the adventure as well.