Cruising with Oso Blanco - Nordhavn 6409

Grace Gove Wilcox is Born!

2012-01-30T17:38:00.000+13:00

Grace Gove Wilcox

Born January 25th at 4:20am, Grace Gove Wilcox joined the family. Daughter to Elizabeth and Brian, Grace weighed in at a healthy 7 lbs 11 ounces. Mom and baby are both doing great!

Kiwi Friends Come to Ski in Utah

2012-01-14T18:25:00.000+13:00

With forlorn looks, we waved good-bye to the Taylors who are heading back to New Zealand after a fabulous ski vacation in the US. Even though the snow gods have yet to bless us with the usual big dumps of the white stuff in Utah, we managed to ski four different resorts. On the plus side, there were no lift lines, the sunny blue sky views were spectacular and we didn't have to worry about frost bite!


At the top of Snowbird with the Salt Lake Valley in the background

On the one day we didn't ski, we visited the Olympic Park in Park City....

Bear and Georgia holding an Olympic Torch

And the kids went tubing...

The sun goes down on the tubing hill...

We had so much fun we're planning a return trip for another year! Next time, there's sure to be powder!

Roos: The Whitetail Deer of Australia

2011-12-14T20:22:00.000+13:00

When our Southern friend, Deb, visited us in northern Wisconsin and saw a whitetail deer for the first time, she screamed, “Stop the car! I want to take a photo!” Really? It’s just a deer for heaven’s sake. Deer that I fed through the chicken wire fence at Prentice Park when I was a kid. Deer that eat my hastas (beautiful leafy plants) and anything else I care to plant at the cabin. Deer whose frequent and erratic presence warrants yellow diamond warning signs every mile along the roadsides. Deer that lounged daily in the backyard of our Minnesota house near the heart of the city without being phased by the presence of people. Deer that almost everyone I know has hit with their car (we’ve hit two ourselves). That is the animal that merits a stop for a photo? Whatever….

So now we are in Australia where we see a kangaroo for the first time! “Stop the car! We need to take a photo!” I imagine the smirk of the passing Aussies. But these animals are amazing! They are so different from any other animal we’ve seen. Sure, we’ve all seen them in a zoo, but here they are in the wild – in the bush! – in their natural environment. Their meaty hind quarters dominate their slender upper body and slim head. With rabbit-like (or deer-like, if you will) ears they look inquisitively in our direction, then return to their grazing. After a few minutes their graceful, effortless jumps propel their pear-shaped bodies across the field to the safety of the woods. Our first siting – how exciting!

We pull up to the first campsite on our two week RV trip from Sydney to Melbourne. On the clearing we carefully watch every step to steer clear of the copious amounts of dark animal droppings. Could this be from our beloved roos? Wouldn’t it be great to see them again? Near sundown, our hopes are rewarded as we peer into the woods at several kangaroos munching on the tall grass. The next night, the roos boldly come onto our clearing. We’re in awe. We watch as their thick, muscular tail acts as a fifth leg as they meander on the lawn. Front paws lead, tail moves forward between sturdy back legs which follow the tail. Their strange walk fascinates us.

At the next campsite, roos are everywhere. Leisurely lounging in the campground like they own the place. Now we are noticing the high frequency of dead roos along the roads as we drive along the Aussie highways. Roos seem to be everywhere.

They're everywhere!

Another campsite….the roo poop is so thick we need to get out plastic bags to pick it all up before we set up camp. Now we’re turning up our noses a bit.

Yes, roo poo..

Could it be? Could these unique marsupials possibly be the whitetail deer of Australia? Yes, yes they can….

The Gold Mine...by Bear

2011-12-14T20:20:00.000+13:00

We, on Oso Blanco, (Ann, Eric and me, Bear) went to a gold mine in Walhalla, Oz. The mine tunnel was about 10 feet, 3 meters, across and about 5-12 feet high. We had to wear hard hats it was so low!

Inside the tunnel

Did you know that back then it took one week to make one meter of tunnel? The way they made the tunnel was like this. One person had a drill bit (metal rod), the other had a big mallet and they made a hole by whacking it. They filled it with gun powder, lit it and ran for the door!

The thing I liked the most was the fact that man can go so deep -1000 meters! The thing liked the least was the cramped conditions. I actually bolted for the door but I (surprisingly) went back in. And I loved it!

A miner's life was bad. There were 8 ways to die! That is a bad life!

The adventure was fun and I learned a lot. It was a once in a life time experience.

Blue Mountains with Old Friends

2011-12-11T18:41:00.000+13:00

After a week of city life, we escaped to the Blue Mountains with our good friends, the Giffords.

Totem and Oso together again!

We first met Jamie and Behan Gifford and their three wonderful kids (Niall – 12, Marin – 9, and Siobhan – 7) in Monterey, CA in 2008. They were aboard s/v Totem and we had heard about them for months. When they pulled into the Monterey marina, six year old Bear yelled to them from the pier – “Hi Totem!” When they looked questioningly at him, he was baffled. “It’s me – Bear!” We had talked about meeting Totem so much that Bear was sure we knew them already and, of course, they knew him. They just laughed at this boisterous kid and continued to their slip. Within the hour, our families converged on the dock and met properly. We became instant friends. The girls came back to our boat to play for the afternoon and we made plans to explore the Monterey Aquarium the next day. We’ve been cruising buddies on and off since – California, Mexico and through the South Pacific. In 2010 when we turned south to New Zealand, s/v Totem continued on to Australia where they would stop and work for a while to refill their cruising coffers. Although we were sad to depart company, we knew we’d be together again.

So when we planned our land yacht cruise in southeast Australia, we were thrilled that the Giffords could join us!

First stop: –the Blue Mountains, just a two hour drive from Sydney. Behan, who had to fulfill her day job requirements, was able to meet us via the train for the weekend. In addition to watching kangaroos at the campsite, we went hiking in the gorgeous rainforest to a railway tunnel that contained a multitude of glow worms.

Sundowners around the campfire

We spent nine fun-filled days and nights together in various campsites between the Blue Mountains and the southern end of the state of New South Wales. The kids had a fabulous time exploring their surroundings, sleeping in tents, playing games and even doing school together. The pools, peddle go-carts and jumping pillows at some of the commercial campgrounds were probably their highlights. The adults enjoyed drinking wine around the fire, relaxing, catching up on each other’s lives and dining out sans kids a couple of times. Our highlights were having happy kids and being together again.

The kids explore the coastline

Siobhan bounces high on the jumping pillow

Marin shows her stuff on the go-cart

Bear looks up to Niall like a big brother

Twenty-two year Reunion

2011-12-07T19:12:00.000+13:00

Ann and Tracy

I met Tracy in 1987 when I moved to Orange County, California to work at a regional office for a large health insurance company. Tracy was the office manager of the four person outpost and she was subversively the one in charge. We had an incompetent (at best) boss and we teamed together both at work and socially.

Tracy was the only true friend that I made in the three years I lived in California. We enjoyed movies, theater, the flea market and exploring new places. Tracy was always in the know about where to go and what was happening in the area. I left California in 1990 and Tracy left soon after to join her husband in Malaysia. We stayed in touch through the years and I vowed to visit her one day. I thought that would be in Malaysia but reset that plan when she moved to Australia (her home country) five years ago.

I met Tracy in the hotel lobby and recognized her immediately! She hadn't changed a bit. As it is with longtime, good friends, we picked up where we left off as if twenty two years hadn't passed since our last time together. We were able to get together several times over our week in Sydney and meet each others kids (she has two: 19 year old Katie and 16 year old Shane). It was a wonderful time and we hope she can visit us next year on the boat in northeastern Australia.

On the Road

2011-12-07T11:16:00.000+13:00

We left Oso Blanco safely tucked in near Brisbane a couple of weeks ago and flew south to Sydney to explore southeast Australia. Staying right in the heart of Sydney, we enjoyed all the city had to offer: museums, the Opera House, harbor ferry cruises, and great restaurants. Sydney was surprisingly smaller than I had envisioned and easy to navigate. The public transportation is superb and inexpensive, offering a tour of the city and harbors (via ferries) at a reasonable cost. Most tourist areas were overpriced (per usual) but many museums were free and inviting on rainy days (which were all of our days in the city!). Overall, we ranked Sydney high on the list of very cool cities to visit.

View of the Sydney Opera House from a harbor ferry

Sydney Skyline

Farewell Jo

2011-11-20T15:00:00.000+13:00

Our friend, "family" member, and crew, Jo, left us for new adventures. Her presence on the boat is missed and we refer to her every day! If Jo were here, she'd do this or say this. Bear misses his morning mantra of "The British is coming! The British is coming!" Every day Bear tells us that he misses Jo and especially the music classes. We all miss her sense of humor, her caring ways and, of course, her cleaning! She's on her way to England now to meet her new niece, Alba. We wish you all the best Jo!

The faces of Jo:

Still Prefer Sheep

2011-11-20T14:03:00.000+13:00

"Ah, I still prefer sheep...."

Lone Pine Koala Sancutary by Bear

2011-11-18T20:14:00.000+13:00


Bear cuddles a koala

In Oz, we on Oso Blanco went to a koala sanctuary that also had other animals. I held a koala there and saw Tasmanian Devils. We fed and petted kangaroos and wallabies. We also saw a wombat and a lot more!

One of the animals we saw was a platypus. Did you know that they are small? They are only about a foot long! I thought they were bigger.

Here are some facts we learned. Did you know that the Tasmanian Devils only eat meat? Or that koala bears only have three fingers but have two thumbs? Did you know that kangaroos live for 15-20 years? I think these are good facts.

We stayed there for only two hours but saw a LOT. It was a super experience. I would love to go back. Take my advice - GO THERE!

Feeding kangaroos

Playypus

Tasmanian Devil

Wombat

Loving Oz!

2011-11-13T16:48:00.000+13:00

We've been in the land of Oz just over a week now and it has totally exceeded our expectations! Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore - but the people are just as friendly as any Midwesterner and some of the dry, open countryside is reminiscent of Kansas. But then you go to the beach.....! Toto has turned into a dingo and the scenery blows you away!

Stunning Beach on Fraser Island

Dingo on Fraser Island

Before coming here, we were told the Aussies were loud, rude and obnoxious. After being in New Zealand last year where the Kiwis were extremely nice and welcoming, we almost dreaded the land Downunder. But our experience (so far) with Aussies has been overwhelmingly positive. Without fail, they have been helpful, cheerful, funny, and hospitable.

The other misconception we had about Australia is that everything is ungodly expensive. We have not found that to be true either. Compared to New Zealand, we find things slightly cheaper. Compared to Vanuatu and New Caledonia - or the rest of the islands for that matter - it's a downright steal!

So don't be afraid if the tornado blows you to Oz. In fact, jump in Glynda's hot air balloon and fly on over! You'll love it!

Next week....we'll be traveling to the Emerald City - Sydney!

Posted by Ann

Snakes Downunder by Bear

2011-11-10T19:12:00.000+13:00

Bear holding a Python (non-venomous)

On Sunday, the 6^th of November, 2011, we, on Oso Blanco, went to a snake place called Snakes Downunder. Did you know that there are about 200 species of snakes in Ozzy? About 80 species are venomous. We learned this fact and many others at Snakes Downunder.

In Ozzy, snake venom is rated against the King Cobra. The most venomous is the Inland Taipan. It is 80 times as deadly as a Cobra. But the most dangerous is the Coastal Taipan. Even though it is only 40 times as venomous as a Cobra, it is more aggressive and more common.

Some snakes lay eggs and some give birth to live young. All might eat their young and none take care of their babies. Snakes eat every 2-4 weeks.

Snakes smell with their tongue, but only some can hear. They can all see, but not very well.

The best way to identify snakes is by scale count. Snakes shed their skin about once a month.

If you see a snake, FREEZE! If you get bitten by one, put lots of pressure on the place and then call a hospital.

It was a scary and fun experience and I am still afraid of venomous snakes.

Posted by Bear

Bundaberg Rum Factory

2011-11-06T23:53:00.000+13:00

When you grow a lot of sugar, you have a lot of waste product - molasses to be exact. And, as the sign on the roof at the Bundaberg Rum Factory says, "When life smothers you with molasses, make rum."

Since 1888, Bundaberg Distilling Company has been turning sugar by-product into rum at a staggering rate. We toured the facility and were stunned by the figures they reported: 300,000 bottles of rum bottled per week; 15,000 cans of rum and coke packaged per minute; 6 million liters of rum in vats.... This is one major operation.

Even though Bundaberg rum is famous, its mascot won our hearts - Bundy, the white bear. We tasted the rum, but mostly sought out the white bear souvenirs.


Bear felt a connection with Bundy!

What really blew us away was the queue that had formed in front of the plant. In honor of Bundy's 50th birthday, the Distillery is releasing a limited number of special bottles and several people will camp out for up to nine days for the right to purchase ONE bottle of this unique product. The lower the bottle number, the more valuable the prize. Good on 'em - as they say!

Rum fans in line for limited edition bottles.

EB and Brian Visit New Caledonia

2011-11-06T20:01:00.000+13:00


EB and Brian

Eric’s oldest daughter, Elizabeth (EB), and her husband, Brian, came to New Caledonia for a three week visit. We spent most of the time exploring the bays and islands south of Noumea where we discovered the red clay mountains of Prony Bay, the natural lagoon at Oro Bay and a mountain hike to beautiful vistas at Iles de Pins. Brian enjoyed ocean kayaking, tried his hand at fishing (with no luck), took a turn at sailing, saw a shark while snorkeling and climbed mountains for spectacular views. EB, being six months pregnant, stuffed herself into a wetsuit for snorkeling, was a trooper on hikes and still beat up on her little brother. Back in Noumea, we visited the Tjibou Cultural Center, the Noumea Aquarium and the New Caledonia museum. The time flew by as it always does when you’re having fun! Here are some photos from our time together!

It's a Green Pumpkin Charlie Brown

2011-11-06T19:41:00.000+13:00

At Easter I couldn’t find white eggs for coloring so we had some funky colors when we dyed brown eggs. Now it’s Halloween in New Caledonia and our Jack-o-latern is GREEN! Pretty cool!

Vampiress Ann, Caballero Bear and Ballarina Eric

We had planned on being on passage to Australia on the day of Halloween so we had a party on Oso the day before. Trick-or-treating was a bit scarce with only two other boats in the anchorage that were wise to our scheme. That didn't deter us! Donned in our costumes, we set out in the dinghy to collect our treats - but were met with tricks from Jackster instead!

Zombie Jo


Jackie and David as each other

Pirate Cindy with Bear

Sister Ships

2011-11-04T13:53:00.000+13:00

On April 1, 2010 Oso Blanco, Nordhavn 64-09 and Mystery Ship, Nordhavn 64-10 departed Paradise Village in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico after a "good-bye" dinner with our friends at the VYC. We began a journey of a lifetime as we started across the Pacific Ocean towards the Marquesas Islands, nearly 3000 nm away.

After arrival in the Marquesas, we wandered the South Pacific on slightly different schedules than Glen and Cindy on Mystery Ship, but we stayed in touch and often crossed paths for a few days or weeks at a time. Each time we reconnected, we shared stories, had wonderful dinners and great wine. and enjoyed seeing our beautiful sister ships berthed or anchored near each other. We recently connected in New Caledonia and prepared for our crossing to Bundaberg, Australia.

Today, Nov 4, 2011, we completed our Pacific crossing as we arrived together in Bundaberg, Australia. 17 months and over 13,000 nautical miles, often within sight and radio contact, always within email. In the middle of the night, somewhere on the great Pacific Ocean, there was always comfort in seeing a distant light.

We don't know when we will again make a passage together, but what an amazing journey it's been.

Trawler Time

2011-11-03T08:59:00.000+13:00

It's 4 am on our third day out from New Caledonia and we have covered over 630 nm in less than 70 hours. I just came back on watch after 8 hrs of wonderful sleep. I woke up slowly in a foggy haze – unsure of where I was and feeling only a gentle motion. The sound of the engine is a distant hum. Are we moving?

This is Trawler Time. The Pacific is just that – peaceful, but still alive. The boat is doing exactly what it is designed to do – working with the sea – not against it and carrying us toward our next destination, safely and smoothly. The eastern horizon has already taken on a pink orange glow foreshadowing another spectacular ocean sunrise. But the sea is not still today. As I came up to the galley for my morning coffee, I expected to see that mirror like, summer morning stillness we so often experience at our little lake in Wisconsin. This morning, the ocean is still providing 3' – 4' swells, but they are so long, so gentle, and graceful that the boat does not rock, roll, or twist about. Oso Blanco slowly rises and settles as each swell passes under. Each individual swell is visible as it gradually approaches us, one after another - lifting our 90 tons like a duck on the lake and softly settling. There is a gentleness to the ocean at times like this, but it's power is unmistakable.

Sometimes during foolish cocktail hours, we get into the unanswerable debate of which is better, a sailboat or a power boat. To me, there is no more wonderful feeling than a finely tuned sailboat on a broad reach, in perfect conditions. The feeling of power, charging through the water, with only the sound of the waves breaking under the bow. It is what sailing dreams are based on.

Most of our sailing friends have never experienced Trawler Time. Yes, the seas are gentle and the sunrise is imminent, but the wind is very light and wandering around the compass like it's had 3 shells of kava. To be under sail at this moment would be rolling from side to side as the sails flop back and forth searching for direction from the wind. When we used to race in these conditions, we said one had to drool over the side to see if we were moving forwards or backwards. But this is our time. Our Nordhavn is purring along at 1350 rpm doing 7.8 kts toward Australia. The systems are working perfectly together and our stabilizing system reduces any roll to a gentle motion. All our doors and ports are open and the soft breeze drifts throughout the boat. With the engine turning so effortlessly deep below, all one is aware of is the sound of the waves as they roll along the hull.

Sailboat vs powerboat is a foolish debate. Out here, we are all doing it our own ways. We take what the sea offers and hopefully we each enjoy our boat and each day. The fact that we get to drink a beer with interesting folks in far away places and discuss such issues shows how lucky we are. The boat is only a means to an end.

But, then there is Trawler Time.........

PS:

I apologize (not really) for any redundancy or repetitiveness in my ramblings while at sea. After a few days and nights in near perfect conditions I seem to enter a peaceful fog (purple haze?) that induces an inspiration to try to describe what it's like out here. This is especially true when I come on watch for my usual 4 am shift. Unfortunately, it also may blur previous attempts and the story may be repeated. Or is it I'm just getting old?

Australia Bound Day 1

2011-10-31T19:43:00.000+13:00

We left New Caledonia early Monday morning and are steaming toward Bundaberg Australia. Our first day has been great with relatively mild seas and winds on the beam. Seas are forecasted to get a bit lumpy by Wednesday, but so far so good.

New Caledonia

2011-10-30T08:09:00.000+13:00

It is October 30 and a month in New Caledonia has blown by. The highlight of our time here was having Elizabeth and Brian with us for nearly 3 weeks as we explored some of the outer islands and anchorages.

We are now anchored at the far SW end of New Caledonia with David and Jacqui on Jackster and Glen and Cindy on Mystery Ship. We have spent much of the last couple months with Jackster and we are having our last hurrahs with them before they head to NZ and we cross to Bundaberg, Australia. It will be nice to have Mystery Ship (our identical sister ship) with us for the 800 nm / 4 day passage to OZ.

We will be heading out early tomorrow (Monday) morning and the forecast is for reasonable conditions with 2 – 2.5 meter seas from the E – SE. Following seas and light to moderate winds should give us a good ride.

Eric

Plastic Jellyfish??

2011-10-28T14:49:00.000+13:00

Walking along a pristine white sand beach in New Caledonia, we came across this gorgeous green turtle washed up on shore – unfortunately dead. The locals speculated that the turtle mistook a plastic bag floating in the water as its favorite food – a jellyfish – ate it and died as a result. This is a common occurrence among turtles. Here in New Caledonia where there are plenty of both turtles and plastic garbage in the water, this tragedy occurs. This is a sad reminder for awareness of plastic in the world and where we put our trash.

As Tim Minchin says, "Take your canvas bags to the supermarket.....!"

Dugong Encounter

2011-10-28T01:14:00.000+13:00

(Stock photo from the internet)

New Caledonia is known for its population of dugongs – which is a walrus-like animal that looks like the manatees of Florida. Since arriving a month ago, we’ve kept our eyes pealed for the elusive animal. Finally we spotted one yesterday in the distance as it flipped its tail up to dive under. That was quite exciting. Then this morning while I was kayaking, I saw a large brown lump in the water. I peddled over and quietly came upon the spot and there it was – a five foot long, brown dugong with a girth of a dolphin floating about a foot below the surface. He came alongside my kayak within two arm lengths of me and we eyed up each other. The water was crystal clear and, being down so low in the kayak, I had a very good view of him. He spanned more than half the length of my ten foot kayak and there were two remorays (fish that suck onto larger fish) swimming around and clinging to him. Once he came up and took a breath, glanced my way and sleepily sank back down. The sound of his snort startled me at first but it was such a gentle movement that it put me at ease. He seemed quite unbothered by our encounter and we stayed side by side for a couple minutes. If only I had had my camera!

New Caledonia

2011-10-02T08:00:00.000+13:00

We arrived in Noumea, New Caledonia at 10 am on Saturday after a wonderful smooth 59 hr. passage from Luganville, Vanuatu. Even Ann thought it was smooth!

Noumea calls itself the "Paris of the Pacific" and it certainly is VERY French. Due to our being "language challenged" we used the services of a yacht agent to handle the paperwork and arrangements. Our clearance was the easiest ever. Our agent, Chloe, instructed us to proceed directly to our slip in the marina where she met us and took care of all the formalities. She even filled out the individual visa forms. The quarantine (agriculture) officer spent 5 minutes looking through our freezer, immigration didn't even board the boat and stamped our passports on the dock, and Chloe took our forms to customs. Voila', we are in New Caledonia.

Passage update

2011-09-30T15:02:00.000+13:00

It is noon on Friday in this part of the world and we are having a great passage. We expect to arrive in Noumea, New Caledonia early tomorrow morning.

The scale and power of big seas are always amazing and make for good stories, but the opposite is equally incredible. For 24 hrs the seas have been nearly flat calm. Looking out in all directions all the way to the horizon and seeing only slight ripples on the surface seems impossible. When I came back on watch at 0400 this morning I could see the reflections of the stars on the water's surface. I turned off all the external lights and we ran in darkness with the stars above and the bioluminescence in our wake marking our progress like pixy dust. Occasionally there would be a streak in the water as a fish left a track like a shooting star.

Just after sunset last night, two large boobies circled us and landed on the railing at the very bow of the boat. As our guides across the ocean, they were still there at sunrise, when they both woke up, stretched their wings, and flew off for breakfast. On this passage, with calm seas, we get to appreciate the little things.

477 nautical miles with the Pacific Ocean living up to it's name and our boat running perfectly with only a distant hum. This is what we dream of.

At sea ......

2011-09-29T12:32:00.000+13:00

It is mid morning on Thursday and we are approximately 100 nm from Santo, Vanuatu on the way to New Caledonia. The forecast looks good and since we left Luganville last night at 2300 (11 pm for you Packer fans) we have had relatively smooth conditions. Winds are light and the seas are only 2 – 3', but since they are straight on our bow, the ride is a but choppy.

We expect to arrive in Noumea, New Caledonia on Saturday morning and EB and Brian will fly in on Monday for a well deserved holiday.

The Coolidge

2011-09-29T12:25:00.000+13:00

In October of 1942 the Pacific War was in full swing and the U.S. was pouring men and equipment into the region. The Island of Espiritu Santo in northern Vanuatu (New Hebrides) became a major Navy staging area and airbase due to it's proximity to the Solomons and the Coral Sea. Prior to the arrival of the military, Santo was a sleepy island with few buildings and less than 250 "Europeans" mixed in with the local folks. In only a couple months, the Americans built 2 heavy bomber bases, 3 fighter bases, and landed 100,000 troops.

Santo was strategic to the Navy and shipping because of excellent harbors at both the northern and southern ends of the island. The southern harbor was only approachable through relatively narrow passes and they were protected by mines against the threat of Japanese subs. It was here that the USS President Coolidge was sunk after hitting a 'friendly' mine on it's approach.

The Coolidge was one of the largest and most elegant cruise ships of it's time. At 654 ft. it rivals modern ships and she regularly crossed the Pacific. She held the crossing speed record from San Francisco to Japan at over 20.5 kts. In 1942, the Coolidge was pressed into transport service to support the Pacific War. Her civilian capacity of 950 passengers was expanded to over 5000 troops and her holds were filled with supplies, including trucks, weapons, jeeps, and medical supplies. When she hit the mine on her approach to Santo, she was fully loaded and had over 5000 soldiers and crew aboard. After the initial impact and explosion, her captain was able to drive her up onto the beach and all but 2 men were able to scramble down her sides before she slipped back, rolled onto her port side, and sank with her stern in 250' and her bow in 80' of water. It was less than one hour from explosion to her sliding beneath the sea and all cargo and supplies were lost.

Today, the Coolidge is one of the most famous wrecks in the world. She is a very technical dive due to her depth and the dangers of swimming around inside an intact ship. She lies only about 100 yds off the beach and one simply wades out to the edge of the reef and follows a rope down to her bow, at about 65' deep. A number of dive services provide guides and technical assistance so recreational divers can experience the wonders of deep wreck diving. With our friends on s/v Jackster, Ann and I signed up with Allan Power's service. Allan is considered the grandfather of Santo diving and he has logged over 20,000 dives on the Coolidge. At over 80 yrs old, Allan is no longer diving, but he is there to greet and tell his stories as well as drive the bus to the site.

The dive for all 'first timers' on the Coolidge is partly a check out dive. Ann and I had our own guide and we descended down to the gun placements on the foredeck of the ship at 65'. We then continued to drop down and swam along the deck, which is vertical due to the ship laying on it's side. Apparently, our guide felt we were doing OK and we entered one of the cargo holds at about 120'. There were helmets, rubber gas masks, rifles, the barrel of a 155 mm gun, and dozens of track vehicles and jeeps. Fantastic! At these depths, dive time and air supply is limited, so we slowly began to exit the inside and start our ascent. Returning to the surface on deep dives is a slow process and assures one's safety. It is like coming up steps and we make stops to allow nitrogen to escape from our bodies. A stop can be 10 – 15 minutes, just hanging out at specific depths for "decompression" to be complete.

It was an amazing feeling of accomplishment and excitement to have dived on the Coolidge. We returned to the dive office and told our stories over lunch. Like many things, if once was good – let's do it again! Dave, Jacqui, and I signed up for the afternoon dive and we were off again. We had 2 guides for the three of us and as 'experienced' Coolidge divers we were able to penetrate deeper into the ship. We swam into multiple cargo holds, down passage ways that had been only for first class passengers but now were lined with toilets for the troops, and reached the dining room were there is still a bas relief of "The Lady and the unicorn" , which originally hung over the fireplace in the smoking lounge. Tradition calls for divers to remove their mouth piece and give the Lady a kiss. A bit salty ....... On this dive we got down to 140', which is my deepest dive, by far!

We were getting ready to depart Vanuatu for New Caledonia, but not before one last dive on the Coolidge. On Wednesday morning, Dave, Jacqui, and I signed up for a final deep adventure. Having had 2 successful dives the day before, our guides offered us the chance to go deeper yet, and enter the engine and control rooms at over 160' below the surface. Each Coolidge dive took me deeper than I had ever been before, but I was one on one with a dive master who has logged 1000's of trips to the Coolidge and I was feeling good.

On this last dive, we swam down to the bow, along the hull on the outside of the ship, and entered through a large cut out over the engine room where salvage work had been attempted. We then swam through a small hatch and followed our flashlights into the control room where there are still the ships instrumentation and telegraph for communicating with the bridge. We were at 161' deep and I felt good. In hindsight, I felt too good. As we exited the ship and began to swim along the main deck past the bridge, strange sensations began to set in. Within minutes, I felt anxiety and flashes of panic. My guide was right next to me and we had started a long gradual swim toward the bow and our mandatory decompression stops, but I was fighting a strong urge to go up – now. I felt fear and anxiety, but I knew an ascent was impossible. At depths, your body absorbs bubbles of nitrogen much like the fizz in a can of soda. A rapid ascent without allowing the bubbles to slowly work their way out is like shaking up a Coke and popping the top. Except your body is the can of pop. Not following proper procedures will result in getting 'bends', or worse.

Luckily, I was not in danger of the bends, I was "narced". Another possible side effect of nitrogen in your blood on deep dives is nitrogen narcosis.

This typically manifests itself with a feeling of euphoria and well being, often followed by anxiety and fear. Luckily, it usually dissipates fairly quickly as one slowly ascends. Training, practice, and a highly experienced guide allowed me to fight off what felt like survival instincts and keep my shit together. As we rose to around 100, I could already feel the symptoms dissipating and we continued our controlled proper procedures.

Back on terra firma we reviewed what happened. Narcosis can not be predicted and it effects everyone differently. Each of the guides and experienced divers sitting around the table admitted to having been 'narced' at one time or another. The important part is to recognize symptoms – yours and your dive buddy's - and respond accordingly. My guide and another that had been down near us told me that they saw it coming when we were in the engine room and I had been feeling 'fine' – too fine. They said they saw my normal slow relaxed movements becoming jerky and my head was turning side to side. At that point, my guide had begun the process of getting out of the ship and starting back. I have replayed what I remember from that part of the dive and am aware of some of the sensations. I now realize I was having great difficulty focusing on my dive gauges and making sense of them. I also was feeling frustrated with my guide because he was in fact pushing me out of the confined spaces.

All's well that ends well. I am grateful to have had the opportunity to dive the Coolidge and thankful for having been with Tim, who is a true professional. I learned a lot about my limits – mental and physical. I also learned that I do not have a career as a deep wreck diver, and am looking forward to diving next week with Ann and Bear and playing underwater with beautiful corals and fish. Nearly all the good stuff in the tropics is no deeper than 60' – including me!

Big Nambas

2011-09-27T15:28:00.000+13:00

Eric and Bear with Chief Jean-Marc

The men dancing

The woman and children

There are big namba villages and small nambas villages and I’m not sure what the difference is. Namba in Bislama seems to have a couple translations. Nambawan means number one so it stands to reason that namba means number. A namba is also the name of the traditional men’s outerwear which consists of a leaf wrapped around his penis – and nothing else. So when we arranged for a visit to a “Big Namba” village, we weren’t sure if we were entering a village composed of men with large members or one with a large population or something else entirely. What we did learn was the the big nambas and small nambas were once rival warring tribes who ate each other. Today, some of the namba villages still live in traditional kastam ways in the high mountain regions. Near the coast, the kastam ways are for special ceremonies and tourists. This is where we visited: the Big Namba village of Mahe.

(The photos on this blog were not cooperating....)

Posted by Ann

Millennium Cave Death March

2011-09-27T15:09:00.000+13:00

Those of you who know Eric have probably heard stories about the “Death March” – hikes that he and his buddies have done throughout the years in the Utah deserts, canyons and mountains. I participated in one Death March where we hiked through a forest fire, rappelled down hot ash and walked through a river for miles to exit Zion Canyon. I considered it to be “full on”. Then yesterday, we (Eric, Bear, Jo, and our friends Jackie and David from s/v Jackster and I) hiked the Millennium Cave in Vanuatu and now I feel like I really know what “full on” means. As I write this, I have to carefully move my aching legs so they don’t cramp on me!

Bamboo Bridge

The Millennium Cave tour is billed as a strenuous, all day hike through lush jungles, primitive villages, an awesome cave and pristine river water. It was all that and then some. After a 45 minute drive up a bumpy dirt road, a stretch of which was an old WWII American airstrip, we parked in the middle of nowhere and began to walk through the jungle along a narrow, muddy path. Along the way, we crossed a bamboo bridge which was just that – a couple dozen bamboo logs piled on top of each other and laid across the expanse that rolled and slid as you stepped on them. A little dicey. We passed through one village, then stopped in a second one to pick up our guide, Gerry, for the canyon trip. There we got the low down for the remainder of the adventure via a map drawn on a blackboard. We were told to expect: a 60 minute descent into the canyon, a 30 minute walk through the cave in knee-deep water, a 30 minute “challenging” hike in a canyon river, a 45 minute float down river and a 30 minute climb back up to the village. No problem. Let’s go!


Ladders

Armed with a life jacket and surrounded by a contingent of village kids (great for entertaining Bear), we set off into the jungle again where we soon came to the descending part which consisted of scaling down steep hillsides holding onto ropes, scampering over boulders and climbing down a series of ladders made from four inch round tree limbs. The ladders clung to canyon walls that felt as steep as the side of a building at times and spanned the equivalent of at least fifteen stories. Every so often, Gerry would call up, “Watch out! Step broken!” And we’d have to reach down four feet to the next rung in the ladder, clinging onto the muddy, slippery rungs above. I didn’t dare look down, just kept a steady pace while concentrating on each step.

Eric painted for protection

Just before our final descent into the canyon, Gerry painted our faces with red clay. We were told this was to pay our respects to Mother Nature and, in doing so, she would protect us on our journey. So now we even looked ready to tackle nature’s obstacles. Bring it on!

Entrance to Cave

Finally at the canyon floor, we were stunned by the awesome sight of the cave entrance. Sixty meters high and twenty meters wide, the limestone walls were shaped like the interior of a cathedral with swallows swooping in and out while bats slept away the day. The rush of the river swept gregariously into the darkness, daring us to follow. Into the abyss we went. Armed with flashlights, painted for protection and donned in lifejackets, we stepped gingerly into the chilly water which quickly crept up to our thighs – up to Bear’s chest (so much for knee-deep water). Ropes and chains were strategically secured throughout the cave to help guide us through more difficult passages. The limestone rocks were like sandpaper which reassuringly helped prevent slipping. At times, we swam from rock to rock and the guide explained that the water was higher than normal due to the rain of the past couple of weeks. Leaning on exposed rocks sometimes resulted in a palm slimed with guano (bat poop) but the sides of the cave were smooth and stable. Halfway through the cave, we all turned off our lights. With zero ambient light, the blackness was surreal. Three quarters of the way through, there was a gushing waterfall which pummeled the canyon floor and filled the cave with noise like an oncoming freight train. Bear took a ten second brutal shower before we continued on. Light beckoned us to the exit where the cave river merged with another mountain stream. Crossing that river, I was swept away by the current and Gerry had to rescue me before I washed down river. Once on the other side, we all collapsed on the shore to regain ourselves. The village kids, who had taken our backpacks around the cave, met us with our lunches and we eagerly ate. We were only halfway “there”.

Thinking the most difficult part was behind us, we left the lunch spot with renewed energy and plunged into the river for a float. Vines hung down from the canyon rim hundreds of feet above while we kicked leisurely along under small waterfalls. Just when we were relaxing, the guide pulled us to the side of the river where we once again found ourselves in a precarious spot. Large boulders blocked the water’s path, sending it raging through narrow passes. We also had to go through those narrow passes, without being washed away into the flow. One by one, Gerry helped us through. There were many of these situations. One particular cut had two rapids to cross and the water was high. It was the only time Gerry seemed unsure of the best route. David went first and made it across to the boulder on the far side. Our angst was somewhat alleviated. Taking no chances with Bear, Gerry carried him across and placed him safely on the rock next to David. Eric went next and almost made it but lost his footing on the last long step in the second rapid. As he was clinging to Gerry’s hand, Gerry yelled, “Can you swim?” (Fine time to ask, I thought.) “Yeah. Should I swim?” Eric responded. “Do you want to swim?” was Gerry’s reply. And they released hands. Whoosh! My heart skipped a beat but within two seconds, Eric bopped up and was in knee-deep water on the river’s edge. Three down, three to go. Jackie went next. Jackie is tiny – 110 lbs soaking wet. The first rapid took her down pretty fast. Gerry and the other guide jumped in right after her. She was fine but shaky as she made it on her second attempt. I went next and narrowly made it on the last step. Jo lost it where Eric did and rode the chute and was fine. Overall, it took us 45 minutes to cross that one stretch.

Finally, the over-abouts and pass-throughs were finished and we did float and laugh and congratulate ourselves. Surely, it was all downhill from here. But wait, we were down in a canyon that we still had to get out of. So back up we went. This time, there were no man-made ladders but nature-made waterfalls with surprisingly sturdy, green rock footholds. Up we went as the stream of water came down. Wow.

Back in the village, we finally knew there were no more surprises. After some refreshments of coffee and bananas, the chief escorted us part way down the path we’d come on six hours earlier. Returning through the muddy jungle, across the bamboo bridge, seemed like a cakewalk after what we’d just completed. Exhausted and full of accomplishment, we bounced our way home in the truck feeling very satisfied.

Death March – Vanuatu style. Well, if you can’t play with fire, let water be your playground. Full on!

Posted by Ann

John Frum

2011-09-18T07:46:00.001+13:00

In addition to the Yasur Volcano, Tanna Island is home to the John Frum 'cargo cult'. Legend has it that in the 1930s, an American named John befriended a traditional village and convinced them that the missionaries were wrongly leading them away from their customary life. He taught them that by returning to their 'kastoms' they would eventually be blessed with material goods sent to them from America. In WWII, Vanuatu was a major staging area for the Pacific war. The arrival of 1000's of US troops and their gear (cargo) reinforced the promises of John Frum (John from America). To this day, the religion of this village and region of Tanna is a mix of Christianity, traditional kastoms, and the worship of the return of John Frum. When questioned about how they can still be waiting for his return more than 60 yrs after the war, they reply that Christians have been waiting over 2000 yrs, so what's the big deal?

The Frum village has a large center open area surrounded by family groupings of small huts and buildings. Each morning, the village elders have a ceremony where they pray to the return of John Frum and raise an American flag and a US Navy flag. The symbol of their religion is a red cross – not a crucifix, but a red cross patterned after a medic's cross from WWII. Each Friday night the Frum villagers and many others from the surrounding area assemble for an all night session of dancing and worship. An open sided thatched roof building in the center of the village becomes center stage as groups from each represented village take turns with the men sitting in the center playing guitars and the women sitting around the perimeter singing songs of worship and praise. Other villagers and guests frequently stand outside the hut and dance or groove to the music. These weekly festivities begin at sundown and continue to sunrise. Every 45 minutes an elder pounds a stick on a log to indicate it's time for the next group to move into the center spotlight. To a guest, every song from each group sounds nearly identical. This rotation continues all night.

A number of us from different boats piled into the back of an old pickup truck for the 40 minute crash and bash from our anchorage to the Frum village. By the time we had loaded the yachties, added some local villagers, and stopped at a backpackers' resort for more guests, we had 16 people bouncing along through the night. Our friends on s/y Delos had visited here a month before us and had spent enough time to get to know the villagers. They were told that the single kerosene lamp that lit the festivities used to be an electric light bulb powered by a car battery and charged with a solar charger. Unfortunately, the battery had died and been replaced with the lantern. With a little advance planning and help from our friends on Jackster, we were able to buy a new battery in Fiji and we had it in the back of the pickup with us. Perhaps John Frum could pay a visit bearing gifts frum America?

When we arrived at the village, the singing and dancing were already well underway. We were counseled by our truck driver that this was a religious event and we were told we were welcome to dance, but we should be quiet and respectful of the music. I told the driver what we had for the village and that I would like to present it to Chief Issac personally. We found the chief and gave him the gift. Issac wasn't much for small talk and he caried the battery into the music hut and placed it at the base of the main support pole for all to see. No one made any effort to hook it up to the light and it just sat there like an offering on an alter.

We spent a couple hours listening and dancing to the constantly repeating music. It truly was mystical. I stepped back from the hut and heard the music mixed with the crash of the surf on one end of the village and the rumble and orange glow of the Yasur volcano high above us on the other end. I asked some of the villagers what the words and meaning of the songs were. They told me that each song was a prayer "that the Americans would soon return". There are not many places in the world we have heard that!

Just before we left, I asked to say good by to Chief Issac. Apparently, he had gotten tired and gone to bed, but his son came over to thank us for the battery and see us off. He also decided it would be a good time to hook the battery to the single light bulb. After 3 guys tried to wrap a couple of bare wires around the terminals there was no light. The new battery was not charged. Shit, time to go. Still no John Frum.

Tanna Yasur Volcano

2011-09-13T23:25:00.000+13:00


Walking along the rim

On the southern island of Tanna sits one of the world’s most accessible active volcanoes. From the anchorage at Port Resolution, Mount Yasur looms over the mountain just three miles away and spews clouds of ash into the sky. Frequently low rumbling can be heard that can be mistaken for thunder, yet no storm is visible. It’s the angry volcano gods reminding of its constant presence and potential power. It was a must to look this creature in the face.

After 40 minutes in the back of a pick-up truck on the bumpiest road in the world, we arrived at the park gate where it took two men five minutes to calculate fares for seven adults and one child. As Jackie outlined a fare chart to the driver, we read the visitor instructions and took the obligatory photos. Then up to the volcano we went.

Entrance to Mt Yasur Park

It was just a five minute uphill walk in black volcanic rock and ash to the rim of the monster. We could hear its beckoning yet threatening call but could not see anything until we stood on its rim. There were two active vents at the base – maybe a short 500 foot ski run down – that constantly belched and spewed bright orange fire and lava from their throats. The wind blew the ash and sulphur smell directly into our faces so that it was very difficult to breath, and even see without eye protection. Shielding our faces, we proceeded along the rim to gain a better view and await the approaching darkness. Several times we jumped back and gasped at the sudden roar of the animal. The mountain seemed alive and we weren’t sure it was happy we were there.

Imagine the best fireworks you’ve seen that seem to go on forever. Well, this show does go on forever. Time after time, the lava shoots straight up into the air, sometimes higher than the rim. We were mesmerized for two hours, watching this constant scene with mild trepidation but mostly exhilaration. It was a fantastic sight!

Mi sik blong sitsit woto

2011-09-13T18:45:00.000+13:00

One of the common languages spoken in Vanuatu is the primitive yet logical language called Bislama. Along with English and French, most Ni-Vanuatu speak Bislama as well as their native village language. There are approximately 113 native languages in Vanuatu and it has the highest density of languages per capita in the world. I love Bislama. The little that I’ve learned just makes sense. For example, “Mi likim tumas” means “I like it very much.” “Tank yu” simply means, “thank you”. But our favorite is something I am unfortunately experiencing today (we think due to the birthday kava because four of five of us have some level of this). Mi sik blong sitsit woto. Sound it out. OK, it means, I’ve got diarrhea! Other illness phrases are Mi sik blong falldon. I have epilepsy. And Me sik blong suga. I have diabetes.

I love this language! But mi no likim sitsit woto!

Posted by Ann

Birthday in Vanuatu

2011-09-13T18:43:00.000+13:00

How do you spend your 47th birthday in Vanuatu? Attend an official village ceremony complete with warrior dance, taste your first Vanuatu kava at a kava bar called a nakamale (pronounced knock-a-mall), and invite all the boats in the anchorage over for a BBQ. Pretty awesome day!

Bear's awesome carrot cake

It started at 6am with Bear standing beside my bed whispering, “Mom, I need to start your cake. Where’s the recipe?” Followed five minutes later by, “Mom, where’s more sugar?” and each additional five minutes aanother question of that nature until I was wide awake and up by half past six. Bear made a carrot cake from scratch, complete with cream cheese frosting – he even has a "war wound" from the carrot grater as evidence of his efforts. It was awesome! He did an amazing job with very little help except for anti-spillage supervision from Dad. I was very impressed!

Warrior "attacks" dignitaries

At 7am, some villagers came by to ask us to transport some big kahuna officials who were flying into the airstrip on Mystery Island for the grand opening celebration of the new police station in Analcauhat village on Anatom Island. So Eric and Bear followed two local panga boats in our Boston Whaler to the islet to meet the plane. About twenty officials, most from the main city of Port Vila and some from Australia who funded the program, arrived for the day-long event. On the beach, we watched the ceremonial warrior dancers greet them as they disembarked from the launches, then followed along on the village tour. We were invited to participate in the lunch and dedication of the new police station which was a one-cell, cement building built to withstand a category five cyclone (which hit often in Vanuatu). It was interesting to watch the pomp and circumstance of a country's ways in this type of event. It was not dissimilar to a US dedication in that there were several (boring) speeches by people dressed to look important.

Jo, Ann and Jackie getting drunk on kava

In the early evening, we went ashore to the nakamale where we found some local men grinding and straining the evening’s kava. In Fiji, kava is a nightly social event where all the men in the village are invited to participate around a single bowl that keeps getting refilled and drunk until it’s gone, which could be gallons. There is no charge per person. In Vanuatu, kava is a drink served like an alcoholic beverage where you order and pay for a bowl in a bar. Vanuatu kava is much stronger than it is in Fiji, so one or two coconut shell bowls is usually enough. I only had one bowl and I could really feel its affects. I felt woozy drunk and a bit nauseas. Eric and Jo had three bowls and were pretty much stoned. Our friend, Jackie who probably weighs 110 lbs, felt very ill after one bowl. It tasted better than Fiji kava but not good enough to drink again!

Eric made BBQ ribs for Ann's birthday

Then several people came over for a BBQ. Eric made BBQ ribs at my request and they were delicious. My only request for a birthday present was to not have to cook, so I did nothing. It was a great birthday!

Posted by Ann

Tanna

2011-09-08T08:08:00.001+13:00

We traveled the 60 nm from Anatom to the island of Tanna yesterday, arriving early afternoon. It was an easy crossing and we were joined by our friends Jacqui and David on their sailboat 'Jackster'. We have traveled with them much of the last month and plan on cruising and diving together as we move north in Vanuatu.

This place is quite amazing and fascinating. It almost feels prehistoric. There are supposed to be 30,000 people on this island, but they are scattered about in small simple villages, many of which are described as being 'kastom', which means they live and practice traditional customs – except for the cannibalism. In some villages in Vanuatu, the people are so kastom that the women wear only grass skirts and the men wear 'nambas' (banana leaf sheaths). The villages are then described as being 'big namba' or 'small namba' (big banana or small banana?).

The place we are anchored is a small narrow bay named Port Resolution, by Capt. Cook , when he first discovered it. It has the look of many tropical island villages, but there is that rumbling ..................... and the gritty ash that is always on the decks. On the rocky shore, right next to us, there are constant sprays of hot steam vents that rise up above the palm trees.

Tonight, we plan on jumping into the back of a pickup truck for the adventure to the open cauldron of the Yasur volcano, one of the most active and accessible volcanoes in the world. In early June this area was restricted because the volcano was especially active, but it seems to have settled now.

More to follow .................

First Days in Vanuatu by Bear

2011-09-05T11:44:00.001+13:00

On the 30th of August, Oso left Fiji heading for Vanuatu (the next island group). It took us two and a half days to get to Vanuatu. On the crossing, the ocean (at some times) was as calm as a lake! It was a fairly crossing. I had very little school and a ton of movie time. Those were the good parts!

Bear with his pack

When we got here, there was only one other boat, but there is a big village. The kids in that village and I have so much fun! The kids on Anatom are very shy, but once I got to know them, they were fun.

So far we have been at Anatom Island for four days. The island of Anatom is the farthest south island in Vanuatu. We are going from south to north here in Vanuatu (we have just started). There IS malaria in Vanuatu, but that's up north. So, we're safe.

In two days, we are moving up to Tana which is a super active volcano island. We are going to throw an old ring in the volcano (like in Lord of the Rings – my precious). It is going to be fun!

Sunday shakes but no Quakers

2011-09-04T18:48:00.001+13:00

Today was a mellow Sunday morning, taking it easy and messing with small boat projects, anchored off a small village in Anatom, Vanuatu. The generator was running and the new batteries were happily charging. When one of our generators is shut down, there is a normal brief shake and sputter as it stops. Suddenly, I felt the boat shake and shudder and ran to the control panel since the generator apparently had failed and died unexpectedly. All the instruments appeared normal and the shaking of the boat continued like we have never felt for at least 15 seconds.

What the hell is going on? Is it possible to feel an earthquake on the boat? We looked over to another boat anchored near us. "Did you feel that?" he shouted. Earthquake, tsunami, what's next? There is no 'official' weather or government facility here to be reassured by and we don't have internet in this remote anchorage. So, we did the obvious and picked up the satellite phone and called Eagle Lake Wisconsin where we knew there would be folks celebrating the end of summer at our cabin. It didn't take Mel and Cathy more than 10 minutes to look it up online and send us an email. Yep, there had been a 7+ earthquake about 50 miles from us. No tsunami warnings had been issued.

Back to Sunday morning chores. It's a small world.

Cruise ships in Paradise

2011-09-03T11:22:00.001+13:00

Of course cruise ships go to beautiful places or why else would people go on cruises. But when we read about Vanuatu being one of the most remote and primitive places in the South Pacific, we didn't think cruise ships would have found it as well. However, a day after arriving at the southern most island (Anatom) the Pacific Pearl with 2000 passengers dropped anchor just off shore and pooped out its passengers in orange shuttles onto Mystery Island – an islet across the pass from Anatom. (The history of Mystery Island states that no one lives there because the villagers believe the ghosts of their ancestors haunt the island – no wonder they were willing to give it up to unsuspecting tourists.) My curiosity got the best of me, so I paddled over in my kayak to investigate what an island visit is like for cruise ship people.

Having been nudged out of the channel by one of the ferrying shuttles, I was immediately informed there was no chance of tying my kayak to the long, empty cement dock. Instead some Vanuatu guys hauled it ashore and I entered through the backdoor, so to speak. The villagers from Anatom had been shuttling over all morning themselves, overloaded in open fishing boats. Cruise ship day is a big event for the village and a good source of income. The colorfully dressed women in flowered dresses hauled their wares to the market while the men carried baskets of fresh lobsters to the BBQ.

Bear's feet stick out as he's boiled

I wandered along a path and stopped dead in my tracks at the spectacle before me. It was like walking into an amusement park. Ahead of me stood a dinghy-size black cauldron surrounded by fake orange flames with a sign that read, "Cannibal Soup". I smirked as the first tourist family posed for a souvenir photo. Oh please.

Further down the path the market signs beckoned. I followed. Stepping under the bamboo archway I was greeted by rows and rows and rows of covered stalls, partitioned into a hundred mini selling stations where sarongs, plastic flower leis, and shell jewelry (proudly make in Taiwan) were displayed for sale in Aussie dollars, at Aussie prices. Rip off.

Once through the market, I hit the beautiful, white sand beach. Now this is worth coming for! The surf was breaking over the reef a half mile off shore leaving a protected beach and swim area. Snorkeling equipment was available for hire at "just" $20 per day and some Aussies were already in the water. Several were very excited and I heard the word "turtle". How lucky for them, I thought. You don't usually see sea turtles this far inshore. What was that? Plastic yellow ropes were tied to trees leading into the water and one man was pulling on them while another focused the video camera into the water. I peered closely at the attraction and was appalled to see three gorgeous sea turtles the size of garbage can lids tied to the lines and being dragged around at the tourist's whim. I had to suppress the urge to cut them free or at least curse the swimmers for their callousness. In my mind I formulated a late night navy seal rescue plan that I would share with Bear later....

Completing my circumnavigation of the islet, I left feeling a bit miserable at the plight of the turtles, dumbfounded at the spectacle these people would think is Vanuatu and thrilled that I wasn't one of them. Cruise ships in paradise? I don't think so. Cruise ships turn paradise into Disneyland-like shows to entertain and make money. You could find that anywhere.

Beating on Rocks

2011-09-02T19:36:00.001+13:00

I spent the afternoon sitting on smooth rocks in the middle of a cool, mountain stream doing laundry with seventeen year old Serafina from the island of Anatom (Aneityum), Vanuatu while Bear played hide-n-seek and swam with six local boys all about his age. I've never actually beat on clothes to clean them before and I found the experience quite rewarding and the conversation with Serafina light-hearted and interesting.

Serafina was stunned that I wanted to help wash clothes. When I asked to help, she said, "Are you sure?" "Yep, show me what to do!" and I jumped knee-deep into the brisk water. She handed me a hard bar of transparent yellow soap wrapped in clear plastic and pointed to a snare drum sized boulder that was white and flattened from previous use. There was a perfect rock right next to my washing rock to sit on and a deeper pool at my feet for rinsing. These ladies had the logistics of this process well laid out. Serafina showed me how to rub the bar soap directly onto the clothes and scrub with a harsh, very stiff bristled brush. I was afraid I was going to tear holes in some of the threadbare clothes so I went easy on them. But Serafina didn't. She scrubbed and rubbed and beat those clothes on the rocks as if she was beating the dust out of a leather hide. I took my cue and worked a little harder, still wary of damaging the goods. I thought of my washing machine and dryer on the boat and felt a slight pang of guilt (and gratitude) at how easy my life is compared to this labor and put even more muscle into it.

Serafina

As the pile of washed clothes grew, I learned more about Serafina and her village. Serafina, whose sense of humor showed immediately when she claimed to be from Africa when she told me her name (Serafina must be a popular African name), spoke English well but with a thick accent so our interchange was slightly limited. The kids all spoke their native village tongue amongst themselves, although they learn English in school. Serafina said that her mother took her out of school at age fourteen and that her mother now lives in Port Vila (the biggest city in Vanuatu which is on another island about 150 miles north of here). Serafina's father died when she was four years old. She has more family in the village but it was unclear if she lives with them. I know that she has a ten year old brother because she was washing his laundry along with her own. Serafina was a sweet girl, slightly timid but intelligent, and said that she had enjoyed school when she attended. There was something slightly sad about her but she was obviously hard-working and responsible. I enjoyed spending time with her.

After about an hour, the wash pile got down to the "really dirty ones". Serafina was reluctant to hand them over to me. I don't know if it was because she didn't think I'd do a good enough job or if she felt awkward giving this "white lady" her truly dirty laundry. I insisted and told her I wouldn't be offended if she had to redo it but I would put in the extra effort. She just laughed and tossed me her brother's frayed t-shirt that was quite soiled with inland dirt. I thought what my Oxyclean spray and the ultra-cycle could do in this situation.

I'll never know what Serafina really thought about me helping with the laundry but I'm sure I left an impression on her today, as much as she left on me.

Posted by Ann

Hello Vanuatu

2011-09-02T09:22:00.000+13:00

We arrived Anatom, Vanuatu at 1230 on Thursday after a great 55 hr / 453 nm passage. There is a large bay fully protected by a barrier reef, so we are settled and looking forward to a smooth calm night.

Anatom has only recently been designated as a customs clearance location. A couple hours after our arrival, a man in a small outrigger canoe, carved from the trunk of a breadfruit tree, approached from the beach. "Hi, I'm Colin the customs agent. Welcome to Vanuatu", he said. We invited him aboard and went through the usual paperwork and questions about prohibited or taxable cargo – how much alcohol, tobacco, any drugs or firearms, etc. In some countries, the officials do a careful inspection of the boat as they open lockers and compartments looking for contraband. Colin's inspection was a boat tour not an inspection.

He informed us that usually yachts have to complete their clearance at the next island, which involves an infamous 4 hr round trip Jeep ride to the town. We were in luck because the immigration and quarantine officers were on this island for the night, so they could clear in an Australian cruise ship which would be making a day stop tomorrow at this tiny tropical paradise. We got down our dinghy and he guided us through the channel in the reef to the beach where we picked up the other officers and returned them to Oso. More forms and paperwork, but no further inspections, and we were cleared into Vanuatu. Our clearance fees in Fiji had totaled over $450 USD at our last check in. Total fees here were $8500 'vatu' which converts to approx. $100 USD.

Our officials were wonderfully friendly and charming and gave us lots of suggestions for things to do and see in Vanuatu. As I returned them to the beach they said to be sure to come ashore tomorrow, after the cruise ship leaves, for kava with the locals. That's the equivalent of "let's have a few beers". We are going to like this place ................

Eric

Passage progress

2011-08-31T17:46:00.000+13:00

It's 4 pm on Wednesday and we have 165 nm to go to Vanuatu. Expect arrival around noon on Thursday. Passage has been good with sunny sky and mild to moderate wind and seas, mostly on the beam. 12kt – 16kt wind and 4' – 6' seas.

All systems are running well – batteries are perfect. Oso seems to love a good run.

Cocktail hour is approaching .......

Eric

Moce Fiji

2011-08-30T18:30:00.000+13:00

Good-by Fiji

It is 5 pm on Tuesday and we are approximately 100 nm west of Fiji, in route to the southern most island of Vanuatu, Anatom. We left an anchorage in Fiji at 6 am. Like Mexico, Fiji had almost become a second home to us in our nearly 6 months there. Over two months last fall and 4 months this season and we had become comfortable and welcomed by the friendly people, beautiful countryside, wonderful anchorages, and fascinating remote villages.

We have not been at sea since last May when we came up from New Zealand. Luckily, it has been a beautiful calm day with gentle seas as we again head west toward different islands, different countries, and new experiences. We expect to complete the 450 nm crossing in 2 1/2 days, arriving in Vanuatu Thursday afternoon. Friends have told us that going to the outer islands of Vanuatu is like going back 50 – 100 yrs. But, not to worry, the last confirmed incident of cannibalism was in 1968.

Eric

Size Matters!

2011-08-26T10:04:00.001+13:00

There are times at sea when there is no such thing as a big enough boat. However, most of the time, Oso Blanco is the perfect size boat for us and is wonderfully safe and comfortable.

In our travels we get to see many different types and sizes of boats and yachts. Occasionally, we get to know the owners (or the crew of the big boats), but rarely are we up close or able to tour the large boats. The last few weeks here in Fiji we have been docked next to 'Georgia', one of the largest sloops in the world at 160 feet!. There are usually 4-5 other big boats here on our dock, and as our Ambassador, Bear wastes little time in getting to know the crew of the superyachts. This morning, he arranged a full tour of Georgia and she is beautiful.

The photo shows us docked next to "Georgia" and accurately shows our relative size. You can see some photos of "Georgia" if you google 'sailing yacht Georgia'.

Progress in Paradise

2011-08-23T14:05:00.000+13:00

Q: How long does it take to get an overnight air freight shipment to Fiji?

A: 10 days.

On Monday our long awaited shipment of new batteries arrived at the marina. It has been 10 days since we paid for the 12 large batteries and air freight to get them here promptly. Our saga began 3 weeks ago when our 'house bank' went belly up. These are the batteries we use to power all of our systems and appliances when we are away from a dock or marina. Since then, we have gotten by by running our generator 24/7.

I solicited the help of 2 strong backed Fijian rugby players to haul out the old batteries and position the new ones so I was able to do all the securing and wiring. The process took us over 7 hrs and when I finally flipped the switches there was great relief. Each battery weighs over 160 lbs. so there was no way we were going to do this ourselves with my old back.

We are continuing to run tests on the charging and electrical systems and all looks good so far. It's time to start looking ahead for a good weather window for our 600 nm passage to Vanuatu. Early next week looks good so far.

World Class Rugby at Third World Prices

2011-08-21T13:16:00.000+13:00

Our gang in the stands

Having been brought up watching NFL football every Sunday in the fall, I love watching the game and I am an avid Packer fan. In the South Pacific, the closest thing to American football is Rugby, and I do mean that with a capital "R". Here in Fiji, Rugby is revered. The players are gods and all the Fijians follow their team: the Flying Fijians. So when the Togans came to play Fiji in Lautoka in a three game tournament, we jumped at the chance to attend a game and learned what all the fuss is about. An NFL game this was not!

Some of the crew of the superyachts in our marina organized the trip to Lautoka (a 45 minute drive from the marina in Denarau). Thirteen of us, including a few Fijian guys who are working on the yachts, piled into a comfortable van for the bumpy trip at $2 per head. We arrived a couple of hours before the 4:30 game as we were anticipating long lines and crowds. We need not have worried.

Tonga in red; Fiji in white

Walking into Churchill Park in Lautoka, you feel like you’re entering an American high school stadium in a metropolitan city. Bench seats line the length sides while hillside seating provides cheap seats in the end zones. Having purchased our $10 ($6USD) tickets at the door, we sat in the covered seats at the “fifty yard line” (which doesn’t exist in rubgy but think of the equivalent in NFL). Our gang filed in an hour before the game and established ourselves behind the TV cameras (yes, this is a televised event). The stands gradually filled in until it was at capacity with people crowding the stairs as well as the seats. However, the benches opposite from us were only a quarter full and the hillside had just a smattering of families where young boys played their own rugby game with a plastic Coke bottle. For all the Rugby fans in Fiji, many still cannot afford to attend games or are at work on a Friday afternoon.

Fiji's number one fan

An older Fijian woman waving a large Fijian flag sat just behind us, yelling her support and cracking up the crowd with her comments. “Wack ‘em! Wack ‘em!” was one of her chants. Most of her remarks were in Fijian so we unfortunately could not understand but we were humored by her animation nonetheless. We learned she’s an icon in Fijian Rugby. She is a long-time fan of the Flying Fijians, never misses a game and the team pays for her tickets. She’s the mom (grandma) that cheers on her boys no matter what the team status, what we would call a die-hard fan.

Fiji Warrior Dance

From the start, you could see the unity of the team as they ran through plays, practiced kicks and ran sprints. As they left the field after energetic pre-game warm-ups, each man had a hand on the shoulder of the player in front of him. During the singing of both national anthems, the teams both stood with arms around each other’s shoulders. And then a real show of strength, unity and intimidation. The Fijian team formed a semi-circle facing the Tongan team and performed a warrior dance. The crowd roared as the players chanted in guttural Fijian and moved in unison with threatening fist punching, stamping and slaps. The Tongan team responded to the challenge with its own dance and then the crowd really went wild. You could feel the energy radiating from the field and it sucked you into the game from the get-go. The sense of team carried into the game. There were no showboats or stars – they were the epitome of team play.

What I really liked about Fijian Rugby is that it's all about the game. There are no souvenir stands, no cheerleaders, no TV time outs. The stands were quiet as all eyes followed every move on the field. I could hear the grunts and chatter of the players fifty yards away. I was entranced by the play because it never stopped. For two forty minutes halves, the players grind it out, non-stop. As I learned the game from a Fijian fellow sitting next to me, the game became more intriguing to watch. I felt myself become emotionally involved with the team as the play got more intense and I felt as if I was cheering on the Packers at home! So I was disappointed when Fiji lost the game (32-20). But they won the three game series because the team with the most total points of three games is the overall winner.

Tongans fans or Wisconsin Badger fans?

If you include the chicken roti and beer, roundtrip transportation and center field game tickets, the total cost for the three of us to attend this event was around $40 USD. Compare that to a Viking-Packer game at the Metrodome. Talk about value for your entertainment dollar!

Posted by Ann

More from Nagara Village

2011-08-13T12:09:00.000+13:00

Sewa with the kids

As I said, we spent several days with the people of Nagara Village. One of the village men, Sewa, was a dive master at a nearby resort who had some time off and offered to guide our dive trips. Along with a couple from another boat ( s/v Jackster), we dove three days with Sewa on some incredible rock formations which included caves and swim-through caverns. Truly remarkable feature diving in clear water. Some sharks, pretty soft corals, although not many fish.

Bear and I also visited the school one afternoon and had a ball. There were only twenty-five kids in the entire school and three teachers. They had gathered all the kids together for a presentation by another boating couple who talked about Canada. Bear and I were late and caught the tail end of their power point presentation on their laptop which left all the kids staring at the ceiling. We politely waited until they were finished then Bear and I took over. We had brought a blow up, beach ball that is a globe and played a game with the kids. We’d say a country, toss the ball to one of the kids and they would have to locate the country on the globe. When they found it, we gave them a lollypop. The kids loved it. We ended up teaching them the Continent’s song – the one Bear learned in preschool and I know they learned something and had fun. It was great. That was when they taught Bear the moves of a meke dance.


Bear with arm around Dan

Bear bonded with the kids from the village like no other – especially with a ten year old boy named Dan. School let out just a few minutes after we left the classroom and a bunch of kids caught up with us to play with Bear. They tossed the ball around and played tag while I talked with Noami, a friend I’d made at the dances. Noami was about my size so I gave her a bag of my clothes. She was thrilled. I had also brought in a bag of shoes that was much appreciated. We all walked to the beach together and I invited Noami out to the boat. Soon, all the kids were invited and Bear was the bus driver. Load after load came out and soon we had 22 kids aboard! We gave tours, made popcorn and put on a movie about Fiji and their coral reefs. I also made the mistake of giving them Gatorade to drink and a whole glass was spilled on our new white carpet – a unwanted souvenir that will remain with us forever I’m afraid. Bear gave Dan a pair of sandals he’d outgrown and I gave the little girls each two pair of new underpants that I had stocked up on in New Zealand. What a treasure those were! It felt so good to give to these people who were so welcoming to us and unexpecting of things.

Bear the taxi man

On Saturday, with no school, Bear drove himself ashore and played all day with the kids. They played games that neighborhood kids at home would play – hide-n-seek, tag, capture the flag, hot potato... it was so good for Bear and the kids loved playing with him. He was the star, which he also enjoyed. But mostly he liked running around and having the freedom to just be a kid.

Problems in Paradise

2011-08-12T14:54:00.000+13:00

One of the most frequent questions we get asked is "how is the boat running?" Our standard reply has usually been "There are little problems, but nothing to get in the way of having a good time."

That has all changed over the last two weeks. Yes, we are still in a paradise known as Fiji, and yes, we are healthy. However, the old adage that 'cruising is working on boats in exotic locations' has come to haunt us.

Oso Blanco has most of the comforts of a wonderful home, but our maintenance is more like that of a city. We have the normal household problems, but, we also have an electrical plant, a sewage plant, and a water making plant. Our electrical system is called upon to support a wide range of gadgets, gizmos, and cool things ranging from household appliances in the kitchen to amazing magic boxes in our navigation system. To run all this stuff, we have an integrated assortment of generators, alternators, batteries, chargers, and inverters that can supply 12v and 24v DC power as well as 120v and 240v AC. When all is normal, we can even run our Sub Zero refrigerator, dishwasher, or laundry on batteries.

About two weeks ago, for some still unknown reason, our primary batteries began to fail. This is not a simple case of not lasting as long as they used to. They have completely refused to be charged. When your flashlight takes a dump you have a couple choices. For most folks, you stick in 2 new ones and carry on. Some of the rest of us refuse to believe that the rusted old batteries are actually dead and take them out, sand off the rust, shake the light a few times and expect it to work a while longer.

Our boat batteries are not made for shaking. To start with, there are 12 batteries arranged into 3 groups of 4. They are then bolted down in inhospitable places where they can barely be seen, yet worked on. And then there is the problem that EACH battery weighs 160 pounds!

We have spent 10 days trying to figure out what has gone wrong and how to work around it. For the short run, we are OK and have gotten along by running our generator full time. We are able to keep the beer cold, flush the heads, and keep most systems running, but we are reluctant to get far from town and access to internet, phones, and other support services. We have found out that there are no comparable batteries in Fiji. We have contacted battery dealers in New Zealand, Australia, and the U.S. We now know that it will be nearly a month to get batteries here on a ship. Our current quotes for shipping 2000 lbs. of batteries via air freight indicate that the batteries must be flying first class. I never get to fly first class.

Our plan has been to leave Fiji next week and move on to Vanuatu and then New Caledonia, where EB and Brian are to meet us in early October. We will certainly make it to New Cal by then, but Vanuatu looks like it will be cut short.

2000 lbs of batteries to Fiji from the U.S. via first class air. I wonder what the meal service will be.

Night Two in Nagara Village

2011-08-11T22:28:00.000+13:00

We were invited to come in at 7pm to a area south of the village and meet on the beach. From there we were escorted uphill to a place they called Bar 66. It was a unsuccessful attempt at a resort a few years back which is now inhabited by some of the bachelors of the village. Not surprisingly, it is also party headquarters for Nagara village.

Bar 66 is a simple structure with a tin roof and palm thatched walls. Palm leaf mats cover the floor and lights powered by a generator illuminate the 12 by 20 foot area. A kava bowl sits in the middle of the room and the Fijians have all gathered on one side, leaving space for the sixteen of us at the other. We are told that when the music starts, it is appropriate for any male to ask a female to dance and any female to ask a male. The action begins quickly and soon we’re all dancing.

Ann dances Fijian style

Traditional male-female dancing in Fiji is done side-by-side, not face-to-face. This may have been a conservative practice imposed by the missionaries who christianized the native people in the 1800’s because when you compare it to the raucous meke dancing and the provacative fire dancing, it seems out of character. Although as the evening progressed and we all became more comfortable, more western style dancing took place – including the conga line at the end of the night led by our dear friend, Dave, from s/v Jackster. Our friend, Jo, was the bell of the ball when they learned she was unattached. She was invited into the band’s circle, asked to serve kava to the men and had enthusiastic dances with every bachelor of the village to the hoots and hollers of the others. Even the Fijian woman thought it was hilarious to watch the flirtatious antics of the young men. We danced well into the night and dinghied home in the rain after midnight.

Nagara Village

2011-08-08T21:38:00.000+13:00


Bear with Sewa and friends

For the last few days we’ve been anchored off Ono Island in view of the village of Nagara (pronounced nan-gara). Here we have met the loveliest, most welcome people since coming to Fiji, which is why we’ve lingered here so long. From the moment we pulled our dinghy ashore and were greeted with smiling faces, we knew this was a special place.

As is the custom, all visitors to a Fijian island must pay proper respect to the local villagers before exploring their land or waters. In a ceremony called sevusevu, visitors bring a gift of kava, a native root that is ground to a pulp then made into a tea, to the village chief. He blesses the gift and the visitors are then welcome as family members. We are now invited to explore the village, hike, fish, swim and dive with the encouragement of all the villagers.

We’ve performed this ritual over a half a dozen times now, with varying levels of response. In the Mamanucas where there are many resorts that organize village visits, the Fijian people are very accustomed to white people gawking at them and many seem bored with the process. Even in the Yasawas, we were not a novelty. But down here, in the southern end of Viti Levu in the islands near the Austrolabe Reef, tourism exists on a much smaller scale, and cruising yachts are more rare. In fact, in Nagara there were no visiting yachts for the past two years. So when we arrived along with five other sailboats and filled up their bay, excitement filled the air!

Fiji men perform the meke

Our first evening in Nagara we were invited to a meke in the village. We are not quite sure of the translation of meke, but it involves traditional dancing. Kids in schools have performed mekes for us and that evening six young men of the village performed for us. Essentially, it is an interpretative dance performed sitting on the floor dressed in native costumes made from local foliage and pounding the rhythm on the ground with their hands. In the school the following day, the boys brought Bear into the meke line and taught him the moves. He was told that pounding on the floor means falling and upturned hands means catching. An arm in the air was a sword and other warrior moves involved slashing arms and chop-saw strokes. The dances are very entertaining and the accompanying music is upbeat and provocative. The entire room sways and claps to the beat as all are entranced by the dance moves.


Sitting around the kava bowl

Prior to and following the meke is the traditional drinking of kava. Once solely a male ritual, women now participate as well. Kava is a mild drug, similar to marijuana, that is legally grown in many South Pacific islands and is used for recreational purposes. The root of the kava plant is pounded into a powder which is mixed with water and strained through a cloth to produce a tea-like mixture. It is served in a wooden bowl on the floor surrounded by the men who are preparing the mixture . During the evening the men takes turns pounding the root, ringing it through the cloth bag, and serving the grog (another name for kava). The affects of kava vary. The initial reaction is a numbness of tongue and lips. Beyond that, it is a matter of tolerance, quantity and strength of the root. At best, you become very mellow. At its worse, your body becomes numb as if you are drunk.

Along with kava during the meke, the women served us tea and sweets. The tea was very simple – hot water with a leaf from a lime tree. It was surprisingly flavorful and good. The sweets were unique and tasty, although not as sweet as an American dessert would be. These were made from coconut, kasava root or taro root mixed with some sugar and flour and baked, with a thin layer of sugar icing on top. Again, they were surprisingly good and, together with the tea, it was a nice treat.

After a few hours of singing, refreshments, kava and talking, the elder called an end to the evening and they sang us the traditional Fijian good-bye song. Before we left, the entertainment for the following evening was arranged – dancing for all of us at Bar 66. We had no idea what that was all about....

Position

2011-07-25T15:59:00.000+13:00

Click to see our position today http://fms.ws/5TH6g/17.77351S/177.18205E

We have not been very good about posting our location, partly due to technical difficulties. We have been in various parts of Fiji since early May, will be heading to Kandavu, Fiji later this week for two weeks of very remote diving.

Mid August we will finally leave Fiji behind and head for Vanuatu, 600 nm west of here.

Short version:

Location: Fiji

Position: mostly missionary

And for all you Sarah Palin fans, teaching abstinence is almost as effective as prohibition ....................

World Class Surfing in Fiji

2011-07-24T16:51:00.000+13:00

Boats were up close to watch pro surfers ride

World famous surfers flocked to Fiji last week for epic surf waves caused by a distant pressure system. The surf was consistently 5-6 meters high for days at Cloud Break reef and only professional level surfers were advised to ride. Well-known world champion surfer, Kelly Slater, was among those who came to surf. Many boats lolled in the surf nearby to watch this spectacular sight!


Kelly Slater in the curl

Rite of Passage

2011-07-20T11:49:00.000+13:00

When your kid turns sixteen and gets his driver’s license, there’s that sense of relief because you no longer need to retain the “bus driver” title, coupled with worry because you no longer know for sure where he is and that he will return home safely. On the boat, we have a similar situation.

When at anchor, transportation is required to go ANYWHERE – even if it’s just for a walk. So our dinghy is our lifeline to other boats, land and snorkel spots. Whenever Bear wants to see friends (which is always) we drive him on over. Well, today that all changed. Eric blew up the eight foot, inflatable dinghy with a 2.5 hp motor (which is much easier to manage than the fifteen foot Boston whaler propelled by 60 hp), gave Bear operating and safety instructions and set him free! Off he went to see friends on s/v Stray Kitty and to shore to swim in the pool. We haven’t seen him in hours….

Even though he’s only nine, life is simpler here….and it just got simpler for us!

Home for a Time

2011-07-18T22:40:00.000+13:00

(Note: We were back in the states for a couple of weeks but have now returned to Fiji where we'll be until early August.)

The 4th of July is a big to-do in the States, and we celebrate with gusto at our cabin in Wisconsin. Our lake puts on its own parade which draws about 200 people – half participants and half spectators. The parade route is about three blocks long and, in thin years, we have been known to walk the route 3-4 times to make it worthwhile!

Ladies who Float

This year I joined with my “ladies who float” gang as we wore signs and did a routine with swimming noodles. Eric drove the decorated Jeep in commemoration of our previous Grand Marshall, Billy Meyer, who died this Spring. And Bear did the usual “spray the crowd with water” routine while also collecting candy along the route.

Immediately following the parade, the gathering heads to the Millar’s for a BBQ where, once again to my dismay, I did NOT win the summer salad contest.

The afternoon is spent in a boat parade through the chain of six lakes, stopping frequently to sing patriotic songs, have a water gun fight and jump in the lake to pee. We round out the day at The Flying Eagle for spectacular fireworks – not the small town kind you would expect but a real, mega display put to music.

This year the weather was perfect, all our friends were there and we had a fabulous time!

Nature Cooks

2011-06-24T22:14:00.000+13:00

Boiling hot springs at Savusavu

At the hot springs on Vanua Levu in the town of Savusavu, the water is boiling hot - literally. To test how hot, we put a couple of eggs in a canvas bag and sunk them in the bubbling pool. After ten minutes, we were rewarded with two perfectly boiled eggs. This natural heat source offers a totally free and environmentally-friendly cooking experience. While we were there, we met a local family who was cooking their evening meal of chicken and kasava (root vegetables). A great alternative for a family on a tight budget!

Snorkeling at Night by Bear

2011-06-23T12:37:00.000+13:00

We went on a night snorkel. We had to use underwater flashlights. There were not many fish, but a lot of feeding coral. We saw one 5 foot long, white tip shark (but he came around twice). We put our flashlights on him and his eyes glowed. I clutched my mom's hand so hard I thought her arm might be numb!

We found a sleeping turtle under a ledge. It woke up and swam sleepily away.

It was my first night snorkel and it was really fun.

Bear's Early Birthday Party

2011-06-20T11:11:00.000+13:00

Because it was the last day spent with Bear’s friends aboard s/v Stray Kitty and s/v Kamaya, we celebrated Bear’s birthday early with a party at Namata Bay on the island of Qamea (Fiji). It happened there were seven Fijian kids living along this bay so we invited them to the party as well. All thirteen kids had a great time swimming, tubing and playing party games such as toss the balloon and relay races around the boat. It was inspiring to see the island kids mix so well with the boat kids. Can you believe Bear is nine years old already???

Trekking at Albert Bay

2011-06-20T11:08:00.000+13:00

Today Jo, Bear and I went ashore to meet the family that lives on Albert Bay where we are anchored on Rabi Island. We had also heard of a jungle hike over the hill to the other side and hoped that someone would guide us there. Both of our goals were met - and then some.


Inside the home

Thatch roof house

We were welcomed ashore by Mariana, a 53 year old Fijian-Banaba native. Let me explain. Rabi (pronounced ram-bi) Island was used as a resettlement island for the people of Banaba Island (or Ocean Island in the Gilbert Islands, currently part of Kiribati) which was destroyed from over-mining phospates during WWII. The English, in their guilt, relocated the native Gilbertese people to this island in Fiji in 1945 where their 4,500 descendents now live. The current population has adopted some of the Fijian customs, such as kava drinking, but they also maintain their Gilbertese language and customs. The people have a more Asian look of the Micronesian inhabitants of the northern islands. Mariana's mother was one of these transplanted people and her father was Fijian.

The Old Man weaves a basket

Mariana immediately invited us into the nearby open-air, two-room, thatched roof house where we were introduced to “the old man” who sat on the matted floor rolling and smoking Fijian tobacco (as far as we could tell, it was only tobacco, not weed) with Mariana’s husband, Terri. “The Old Man” (which is how he was referred by his family) reminded us of Mr. Miachi from the Karate Kid. He had the same look about him: long, white hair hanging to his shoulders, a headband wrapping his head and eyes that twinkled with pleasure but were sage in depth. For an hour, we sat on the floor and learned about the family, the island and the history of the people. Mariana and The Old Man spoke fairly good English so we were able to understand most of what they said. Their mother tongue is the native language of Banaba.

Next to us, in the same room, was a raised platform area for sleeping. Underneath the platform, pigs slept lazily in the dirt while piglets rooted the soil. In one corner on the bed, two chickens roosted, protecting at least two eggs that we saw. The Old Man claimed to have nine pigs and we saw many chickens with chicks roaming the nearby area. Although these are good sources of protein, their core protein comes from the sea: fish, lobsters, clams, octopus, prawns, turtles and other shellfish. Daily we saw the men snorkeling or fishing in boats for food. They also harvest the sea cucumbers to sell for large sums of money ($40-$90 each!) that eventually go to Japan.

Living almost totally sustainably, the island provides the balance of their diet. For starch, they eat root vegetables (kasava and taro) and also breadfruit which grows on trees. Fruit grows in abundance in this climate as well: papaya, pineapple, bananas, coconuts and watermelon. The only thing that they are light on is green vegetables. Mariana pointed out some leave plants that they eat but it is rare to see the common green vegetables that North Americans are used to. Staples like sugar and flour are purchased in town which is only accessible by boat.

Mariana explained that she and Terri are living with The Old Man temporarily until they build their own house a short distance down the beach. They had planned to start building today but instead offered to take us on the hike. Upon hearing this, we tried to forgo the hike but they insisted. “We can always build the house tomorrow,” they said.

“How long does it take to build a house?” we asked innocently.

Terri shrugged, “Three days, maybe four.” We were stunned. But being in no hurry, we set off on the hike.

Terri cuts a coconut to drink

Our goal was up and over the hill to the bay on the other side of the island. Terri slashed our way through the jungle on a path identifiable only by him. Bear had his machete too but the vines and plants were too tough for him to make much difference. Mariana brought up the rear and pointed out plants along the way and explained their purpose. The trek over took an hour and the beach on the opposite side was empty of water as the tide was out. For this reason, Terri suggested that we walk around the island on the return and claimed it was equidistant to our hike over, except flat. This sounded good. But it turned out to be over two hours in the hot sun! Along the way, we saw lots of crabs, fire worms and brittle stars in the tidal waters. Terri climbed a coconut tree for coconut water refreshment along the way and Mariana picked some papaya for us.

Banana bunch from Terri

Terri (left) and Mariana (right) with family

Back at the house, we were all hot and tired. We sat with The Old Man again for a while and he ordered others to gather gifts for us. We left with a bunch of bananas (over 75 of them!), papaya, coconuts, kasava root and limes. We were humbled by how generous they were. In return we later brought in some kava, canned meat and purchased a fish from them. It was a fantastic cultural experience and we are grateful for Terri and Mariana’s hospitality on their lovely island.