Fish Killer

Landing in the wilderness of Suwarrow has given us the opportunity to live off the land/sea. In addition to hunting coconut crabs, Eric has learned to spearfish. Yesterday he got his first kill and now he's hooked! It's been a grand learning experience for us all.

Our friends on Mulan (who are currently in transit to Seattle) had passed on their spear gun to Oso before leaving the South Pacific. Equipped with gun, Eric joined the ranger, Apii, and our friends Jamie (s/v Totem) and Mike (s/v IO) for the hunt. Paired with Jamie, Eric's primary role became shark watcher. As soon as the first kill is made and fish blood pours into the water, the sharks instantly appear and they are ready to eat. When the hunter gets the kill, he immediately shoots to the surface, holds the fish above the water and jams back to the boat as fast as his fins will propel. There the boat tender will unload the fish from the spear. The hunting partner's job is to make sure the sharks stay safely away from the killer and his fish. Yesterday we had the kids with us and when several whitetip and blacktip sharks decided to hang out below the dinghy and wait for the kills to return, we called the kids in from the water. Niall and Bear continued to venture out with the hunters and watch the process from above. However when the sharks became too active, we pulled them out as well. It only took a half hour for three men to get eight fish for the evening's dinner. By then the sharks were near frenzy as Jamie had wounded a grouper but failed to reel it in. Score one for the sharks. It was time to go.

Being inexperienced, Eric's first several shots bounced right off the fish. But he got the hang of it and we all cheered when he came up with a nice sized grouper on his spear. Hoo-ha!

Back on shore, Apii showed us how to clean the various types of fish. There were parrot fish, grouper, bluefin travaley and another unidentified specie. For dinner, we fed three families poisson cru (raw fish in lime and coconut juice) and many types of grilled fish. It was excellent and we all felt satisfied with the adventure as well.

Coconut Crab Hunt

What a great adventure day! Apii, one of the park rangers stationed here on Sawarrow, arranged a coconut crab hunting excursion for a dozen cruisers. At a motu about three miles away, we anchored and walked ashore where we saw more birds than we've seen since leaving Mexico. As this is a national park and monitored by the New Zealand government (who employs the Cook Island police officers as rangers), the birds are protected here. This motu is a full of boobie and frigate nests.

The hunt began after a vigorous walk through ankle deep passes over rough coral rock where we encountered several ribbon eels and found pretty cowrie shells. Apii led us into the jungle via a path that quickly ended and we fended off scratchy leaves and branches as we scattered in search of coconut crabs. We were told that only those the "size of a large dinner plate" are of legal size and we wondered if we really wanted encounter such a large crab out here in the jungle! Ones that can reportedly sever a grown man's finger with its large claw. Afterall, these crabs crack open coconuts for nourishment!

The jungle was crawling with coconut crabs but all we saw were too small for harvest. Disheartened we retreated to the beach after an hour's search believing we would not be feasting on crab that evening. Wrong! Ten of us garnered four medium sized crabs total. Apii emerged from the bush victorious with EIGHTEEN large crabs bundled in his shirt!

Twenty-two coconut crabs fed twenty-two people with enough left over for eighteen people to feast on crab cakes the following day. The meat was tougher than crabmeat to which we are accustomed and the shells required hearty tools. James likened it to venison versus beef where the coconut crab meat is more gamey. It wasn't as sweet and tender as the Dungeness crabs of the Pacific Northwest but we liked it just the same. There is a fatty sack at their butt end that we were told is "an acquired taste". The baby poop color and runny texture of it was unappetizing so we did not venture a taste. It is sure easy to see how the local population could survive with these in their diet. Apii talked of one of the farther motu where the crabs haven't been hunted for years. He believes there would be plenty of large ones there. We hope to go on another hunt there this week after our friends from Totem and IO arrive as we know they would love to join in the adventure.

Ann

Suwarrow

13* 15 S   163* 06 W

 

We arrived at Suwarrow (Suvarov) at 10 am on Friday after a good 93 hour passage from Bora Bora.    This is one of the most northerly parts of the Cook Islands, which were discovered by, guess who?

 

The Cooks are officially a self governing commonwealth of New Zealand.   The local people are Polynesian, with a strong amount of Maori influence.   It would be easy to pass through this part of the Pacific and never see the Cooks.   The combined surface area of the 15 islands is 93 sq. miles - however, they are scattered over 750,000 sq. miles of ocean!

 

Surwarrow is an atol, much like we visited in the Tuamotus.   The lagoon has only one navigable pass to enter and the surounding reef is 11 miles across.    This is by far the most remote place we have visitied.   There are no villages or communities - only two park rangers that live in a small shack on one of the larger motus and a few cruising boats.   The rangers are responsible for the protection of the atol, which is a National Park, as well as enforcing the environmental policies and doing immigration and customs procedures for visiting boats.

 

Shortly after we had anchored near the 7 other sailboats near the 'park headquarters', two very large smiling Maori guys approached in their little aluminum fishing boat.   James and Appi welcomed us and came aboard to do the formalities and tell us about their atol.   These guys are stationed here from April - November and only have what they brought with them.  There are no reprovisioning boats or additional supplies.   Most of what they eat comes from the sea or from the visiting boats.   They do have a small generator to provide some lights at night, but they do not have enough gasoline to run it.   They explained that their original provisioning called for 300 gallons of gas for the entire season to run their boat and generator, however, they were only sent 60 total gallons!   They were very grateful for the 10 gallons we were able to add to their supply.

 

Within an hour of our arrival, it was clear to us that this was going to be a special place.

 

E

Big Blue Sea

14* 49 S   157* 35 W

 

It is mid-day on Wednesday and we are just over 1/2 way from Bora Bora to the small atol Suvarov (total 685 nm).   Wind and seas have been moderate with 15-20kts and 6-8' seas, all behind us.

 

It is just the three of us and there are no other boats.   We left Bora Bora just behind the N46, Emily Grace, but they travel about 1.5 kt slower than us, so they are 60 - 75 miles behind.

 

Our next 2 stops (weather permiting) are 2 of the more remote atols in the Pacific.   Look them up on google earth and also see what you can find to describe them

 

Suvarov (Suwarrow) atol  13* 15 S  163* 05 W

 

Beveridge Reef  20* 00 S   167* 47 W

 

After that, we go to Nuie, which claims to be one of the smallest independent countries in the world.   Perhaps like the Dutchy of Grand Fenwick!   Also look up the Nuie Yacht Club!

 

Nuie  19* 03S  169* 55W

 

E

Leaving French Polynesia

Three months of cruising in French Polynesia went so fast. We have so many wonderful memories and knowledge of a land that seemed so foreign to us just a short time ago. The three groups of islands were so different from each other. I'll remember the Marquesas as having the most friendly people, luscious foliage and delicious, abundant fruit. The sparsely populatedTuamotos had the most idyllic anchoring due to the reef protection and the best snorkeling/diving we've had so far. And the Societies was a mixture of both - mountainous island surrounded by protective reef, good sea life and many more inhabitants including a high concentration of French people. We may never come this way again so I am feeling a bit sad to leave....

 

Today we leave for a four day passage to the unpopulated atoll of Suwarrow (also called Suvarov), our only stop in the Cook Islands. (We learned that at populated stops in the Cooks, they will confiscate all your meats, fruits and vegetables. We would lose a three month supply of meat if we went there!) After that is the island of Niue, the smallest independent country in the world. Then on to Tonga.

 

Ann

 

Eric's Bastille Day Birthday Bash in Bora Bora

We started birthday morning off as participants in the Bastille Day parade. Representing the Bora Bora Yacht Club, the guys constructed a float consisting of our small sailing dinghy on a trailer, decorated with flags from around the world and King Neptune (Eric) himself presiding. The entire fleet was invited to dress like pirates and walk in the parade. We had over 50 people turn out which made for quite the party mood, despite the fact that it was 7:30 am! The kids presented a homemade poster to the president of French Polynesia and our crazy young friends on s/v Bubbles shared their rum with the mayor! It was all in good fun and the locals loved our pirate outfits. The following day the gendarm (local police) even commented on it!

That evening the fleet again turned out in full force at the Bora Boar Yacht Club to celebrate Eric's birthday with a potluck/grill feast, traditional Tahitian dancers and musicians and silly antics thrown in. The Bubbles gang entertained with their own grass skirted dance routine which Eric gladly joined in. Green Man even made an appearance....

Bora Bora

15* 29.5 S   151* 45.6 W

 

On Thursday, we crossed the 20 nm from Tahaa / Raiatea to the famous island of Bora Bora.   According to the travel magazines, this is the most beautiful and romantic island in the world.   The center of the island is a tall ragged volcanic mountain and it is surrounded by a coral reef.   Many of the big name resorts in the area are thatched roof cabins on stilts out over the water.   Entry level is around $400 / night.

 

The approach to the island and entry through the pass is truely spectacular.   We anchored at the Bora Bora Yacht Club, which used to be a funky cruisers' hang out and restaurant.   Unfortunately, last February, the yacht club got clobbered by a cyclone (hurricane) and they are in the process of rebuilding.   Luckily, they got their priorities right and the first thing they rebuilt was the bar.

 

This is the last major island we will visit in French Polynesia and we are in our last week hanging out with our dear friends on Mulan.   When we head to the Cook Islands, Mulan will turn right and head toward Hawaii and on to Vancouver.   "Mystery Ship", the identical Nordhavn 64 we crossed from Mexico with is also here and we did a scuba dive today with them.

 

This will be a big weekend here as the locals build up to Bastille Day and also celebrate their major traditional holiday which features many nights of Polynesian  singing and dancing in the small town.

 

Sunday morning there will be a rare total solar eclipse that will be visible here in the South Pacific.   We are about 60 miles from the 100% eclipse area, but we expect to have about 95%.   Sunday is also the final World Cup soccer match which will be televised here at the YC.   We will be watching with a couple of Dutch sailing families, so it should be a wild time.

 

Even while we are enjoying this amazing island, we are starting to look ahead to our next "big" ocean passage.   Our 90 days in FP is coming to and end and we must point Oso west in only one week.

 

E

 

 

 

 

 

4th of July in French Polynesia

Even though we are far, far away from America, we still celebrated our country's independence in style. Well, maybe not quite in style but we sure had fun! Our Canadian, South African and Kiwi (New Zealander) friends cheered us on as we sang a medley of America's top patriotic songs while we hula danced on the foredeck with the Tahitian mountains in the background. (The video will appear on Shutterfly soon!) Not to be outdone by our friends Up North (Wisconsin), we held our own summer salad contest, won by yours truly! (FINALLY!) Real fireworks were substituted for those couples who chose to create them in the privacy of their own boats. It was a night to remember!

Bear's 8th Birthday

Bear's birthday was a huge success with a beach party followed by his first sleepover. We played bocce ball, had a scavenger hunt and lunch on the beach. The menu at Bear's request was shrimp cocktail and cheese quesadillas. We tried in vain to find clown fish among the anemones so we could have "clowns" on his birthday (we found them the next day in the same area!). His requested birthday cake was vanilla with strawberry frosting and carmel swirl ice cream. The three boys from s/v Mulan were the overnight guests and they all stayed up until 11pm. We paid for that the next day when they all crashed in the afternoon. I can't believe our Bear is 8 years old already!